Salt cell issues

[bobstew1]

Hayward Goldline AquaPlus.
I was getting a no power to cell 2 error. I had a service guy come look at it- and he said the salt cell was bad. He recommended I do it myself- since his price was high and it is straightforward.
I bought a generic replacement for the T-cell 15.
Now I am getting a High salt/amps error.
The display reads: +40.58V, 10.08A, temp 79, salt 1900.

Is the generic cell the problem? I tried to find what those numbers for V and amps should be.

Should I try an OEM Hayward cell?

[Teapot]

What is you actual salt level, not from the units readout but actual. If the salt is low (1900) the unit will be working harder to try and produce the chlorine which can harm the power unit. Water is more conductive with 3500 salt so less power Volts and amps required.

A guy quite recently published a schematic on here and that showed 22.8v

viewtopic.php?f=26&t=44101

[bobstew1]

Thanks. I am on my way to the pool store to get it tested. I apologize for missing that post. I am new and am still trying to navigate.

[Teapot]

No apology necessary.

[katuga]

@OP, the Aquaplus mainboard is different from the GLX-PCB-RITE pcb.

The display reads: +40.58V, 10.08A, temp 79, salt 1900.

Most likely, the problem is a burnt solder joint on the mainboard, K1 relay in particular. But before you remove the pcb, ask yourself if you can solder.

[bobstew1]

Katuga-

Thanks!! That was the problem. I was able to re-solder the joint. It took me a total of 5 minutes. I appreciate the pictures.

There is a pretty good video that I found through google.

Bob

[Teapot]

I think that's a great post from Katuga. Very helpful!

[katuga]

Good job, glad I could help. Simple and easy fix, eh!
This is a common problem with aging Hayward Aqua-Plus, Aqua-Logic and Pro-Logic GLX-PCB-MAIN & GLX-PCB-PRO pcb's.