Recommended Levels / Test Results

[nathan8908]

Hi, I have run a new pool test, and unfortunately been rather slack with it over the last few months as everything appeared okay.

I have purchased and received a full FAS/DPD kit from ClearChoiceLabs - which is a great kit!

When using the PoolMath site, I am unsure of what the targets for each should be - other than the Salt which is recommended 4000-6000PPM on the chlorinator.

Problem: Starting to see spots of algae in the corners of the pool. Haven't had an issue in a very long time.

(unsure of what combination of results this is)
TC: (unsure of what combination of results this is)
pH: 7.8
TA: 200
CH: 700
CYA: 35
Salt: 6600

My pool: Saltwater, marble-sheen, 50000L.
Pool chemicals: Haven't had to use any in a long time since a new chlorinator was installed

Can you please help identify what actions I should be taking next? Your help is very appreciated!

[Denniswiseman]

With chlorine what you need to to know is your free chlorine and your combined chlorine which add up to your total chlorine
Use Recommended Pool Levels for your pool to determine what level you should be running at
Free chlorine FC is the available chlorine to sanitise your pool
Combined chlorine is the used up chlorine. If it's more than 1.5 then you need to Slam (Shock Level and Maintain) with liquid chlorine
Total chlorine is irrelevant as it doesn't tell you anything
You will also need to raise your CYA to about 70 with a SWCG

[nathan8908]

Apologies, forgot to write that FC is 6ppm.
What difference will this make to the above recommendation?

[Denniswiseman]

What is your combined chlorine?

[Denniswiseman]

Combined chlorine is the used up chlorine.
The fact that you have algae you may as well Slam (Shock Level and Maintain)

[nathan8908]

Problem: Since I ran the last test, I added in 1.8kg of Stabilizer to the pool. My current test results are;
FreeC: .5
CombinedC: .5
pH: 7.8 or higher
TA: 175ppm
CH: 800ppm
CYA: 46
Salt 6000ppm

My Pool Saltwater, marble-sheen, 50000L.
My pump & filter: Poolrite S-6000 Titan Series; High Rate Sand Filter
My chlorinator: E25 Chlorinator ASTRALPools; Recommended at 6000PPM.

EDIT...
I am also worried, and not sure how much of an impact it will have... but from my test last week to this week, both FC and CC have dropped from 6ppm/5ppm respectively to both at .5ppm......
Is this any indication that something of high impact may be wrong? Damaged filter/chlorinator...? Or does it simply need a boost of chlorine...?

I need help with what exact actions to take, in simple terms, thankyou!

[Denniswiseman]

You need to get your CYA up to 70-80 with a SWCG
How is your SWCG set up because the rating is generally for 24/7 at 100% so you may not be producing sufficient chlorine
Also is it an E25 or an E35 as you have one in your equipment and one in your post

[nathan8908]

Hi Dennis,

It is definitely an E25; I'll have to fix up the profile one.

I currently have the SWCG running for around 8 hours a day currently, as was set up by the installer last year. 4 hours morning, 4 hours night.

[Denniswiseman]

Looking on the specs for an E25 depending on your climate it could be undersized
As I stated previously the rating is generally for 24/7 at 100% so you need one twice the size of your pool
Try running on 24/7 at 100% for a couple of days and then test

[nathan8908]

Thanks Dennis... I have left it on for a few days, and have added in 1.8L of bleach, 25kg of salt and stabiliser and had the filter running for a few days in a row.. with just a couple of hours of downtime to give it some rest.

Everything seems okay from the results in relation to using PoolMath.

FreeC: 6.5
CombinedC: 0
pH: 7.8
TA: 200
CH: 750
CYA: 85
Salt: 7200

[nathan8908]

I have recently returned from nearly 2 weeks overseas. Had the pool cover on the entire time, no solar heating. Pump on daily.

The kreepy krawly has always appeared to have worked fine over the last 3 years. This time, upon checking the pool, the far end is part green, where the KK is no longer reaching it or the steps??

I was assuming that if the KK wasn't working at all, then the entire pool would be green. For only part of the pool to be green, then I guess the KK isn't working at full capacity? But why would only part of the end of the pool be green if the prior test results that I had come back favourable.

Weather wasn't hot here while we were away and the solar heating was not on at all. I haven't had issues with the KK in the past, but may be thinking that it is time to get a brand new one -- unless someone would know a reason why this would be?

I also fully backwashed the pool prior to leaving, and rinsed as required.

https://imgur.com/a/tg6qgTv

[Denniswiseman]

I wouldn't be inclined to leave a KK running unattended for two weeks as they sometimes come up and suck in air and stop. It could also have got caught up in it's hose
The KK doesn't stop algae and a properly sanitised pool doesn't need brushing
What were your numbers when you returned

[nathan8908]

To clarify, the KK wasn't running 24/7. Given that the pool wasn't being used, and the cover on, the KK only ran for 3 hours in the morning, and 3 hours in the evening.

Results today show the below. What action should be taken given the partially green conditions in the pool - where the KK cannot reach..?

FreeC: 0
CombinedC: 0
pH: 7.8
TA: 200
CH: 850
CYA: 85
Salt: 6800

[Denniswiseman]

You have absolutly no chlorine that is why it's going green. If you had maintained your FC at just over 6 you wouldn't have had any trouble
You will need to Slam (Shock Level and Maintain) relative to Chlorine / CYA Chart
As I said earlier brushing doesn't stop algae
Get some liquid chlorine and turn off your SWCG to control your chlorine better at the high slam level