water mold

Chlorinating, maintaining the right chlorine levels,
chlorine problems. Dichlor, trichlor, cal hypo, bleach,
granules, chlorine pucks and chlorine sticks.
robinixie
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water mold

Postby robinixie » Thu 28 Jun, 2007 19:38

anyone ever heard of water mold? i have a white slime coating on my filter cart. the pool is crystal clear although i am still in a cholorine lock. the slime is hard to hose off--i have been told it's water mold & needs to be taken care of asap. any comments or solutions?


chem geek
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Postby chem geek » Thu 28 Jun, 2007 21:11

By any chance are you using Baquacil? White water mold is frequently seen in such pools. It's less common in chlorine pools. Treating it is really hard in a Baquacil pool. In a chlorine pool, one needs to shock with a high amount of chlorine for an extended period of time as the mold is often in pipes. If it's in your filter, you should chemically treat your filter.

If you are using Baquacil, then BioGuard makes a product called SoftSwim Assist that forms chlorine dioxide in water (chlorine is incompatible with Biguanide).
robinixie
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Postby robinixie » Fri 29 Jun, 2007 09:08

no i use chol. (3in. stab. pucks) and i am in a "chol lock". i have been heavily shocking since end of may. i still have a chol lock. i put 4 gal of bleach in @ 9am no fc reading. every thing else is balanced. white slime still on cart. do i use a cart cleaner on them? what about soaking them in bleach? i do have a line that runs under the pool that has never worked--i run w/ only 1 skimmer. could that be filled w/ white mold? really appreciate your comments. the first time i found the mold, it was preventing the heater from kicking on!
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Postby Backglass » Fri 29 Jun, 2007 09:41

robinixie wrote:no i use chol. (3in. stab. pucks) and i am in a "chol lock". i have been heavily shocking since end of may. i still have a chol lock. i put 4 gal of bleach in @ 9am no fc reading. every thing else is balanced. white slime still on cart. do i use a cart cleaner on them? what about soaking them in bleach? i do have a line that runs under the pool that has never worked--i run w/ only 1 skimmer. could that be filled w/ white mold? really appreciate your comments. the first time i found the mold, it was preventing the heater from kicking on!


You can only have chlorine lock through abnormally high levels of CYA (Stabalizer).

Do you know your CYA test number?
robinixie
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Postby robinixie » Fri 29 Jun, 2007 10:07

the cya is @ 55. they say thats normal? I really never started having problems since i got the cart. filter. i miss being able to back-wash with my sand one.
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Postby Backglass » Fri 29 Jun, 2007 10:32

robinixie wrote:the cya is @ 55. they say thats normal? I really never started having problems since i got the cart. filter. i miss being able to back-wash with my sand one.


It's a bid high, but nothing monumental. What makes you think you have chlorine lock?
chem geek
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Postby chem geek » Fri 29 Jun, 2007 12:36

What kind of test for chlorine are you using? You say you add chlorine and there is no reading. Are you using a DPD test where after 5 drops you see the intensity of the red color? If so, then this test bleaches out at high chlorine levels (> 10 ppm FC). The OTO test that after 5 drops turns various intensities of yellow does not bleach out, but the best test is FAS-DPD that uses a powder and turns pink/red and you count how many drops it takes to turn clear.

Get yourself a good test kit, the Taylor K-2006, since that has a FAS-DPD test for both Free Chlorine (FC) and Combined Chlorine (CC) and also has tests for pH, Total Alkalinity (TA), Calcium Hardness (CH) and Cyanuric Acid (CYA).

It's possible your water is just out of balance and the hard white substance is calcium carbonate. White water mold is tissue-like and falls apart easily. If your pH, CH and TA are too high, then you may be scaling or precipitating calcium carbonate.
Guest

Postby Guest » Fri 29 Jun, 2007 13:36

i put an order in for a taylor k. i have tried the 1 part pool water w/ the 3 part tap water and still no fc reading so i believe i can rule out the strips being bleached out. i think i feel more comfortable w/ the drops for testing so i don't have to play the guessing game of color matching. i seem to remember the pool co. saying i had alot of hardness but we need to "fix" everything else first. such as the "lock". the white junk is only in the filter cart. scaling would be on walls and tiles? what do u suggest to lower the hardness? ty again
chem geek
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Postby chem geek » Fri 29 Jun, 2007 19:05

I'd wait until you get your own test kit and test a full set of numbers. As for the cartridges, they can be chemically cleaned by your pool store (I would think). In the meantime, you can do the shock chlorine level now or you can do it when your cartridges are getting cleaned (you can still filter without cartridges -- it's just slightly lower head loss in pressure).
robinixie
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Postby robinixie » Fri 29 Jun, 2007 21:42

hey thanks chem geek... i really am grateful for the info. from u & backglass. the 2 of u should teamup and put these pool co. to shame. i will be getting my taylor k on sat (1 week from tom) :cry: so i guess i will wait and pray that i do really have a fc reading and that the test strips were bleached out. the pool store suggests soaking cart. in cart. renew in a garbage can for 24 hrs. then replacing. i suppose i will give it a shot. i will keep on trying opposed to calling the cement truck!!! ty. happy 4th.

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