taylor k test kit

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robinixie
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Posts: 17
Joined: Wed 27 Jun, 2007 21:29

taylor k test kit

Postby robinixie » Wed 04 Jul, 2007 09:48

o.k test kit arrived early. here are the #'s i got
fc-0
ph-7.4
ta-180
hardness-??
cya-4.5
no trace of pink appeared when i did fc so i didn't continue to step 3...right?? ph test was easy to do & read. ta test was just as easy 18 drops then turned red. ta is high, (water is cloudy) but i believe it goes down w/ rain and shouldn't be an issue. completely didn't understand cal. hardness test at all. after step 3 no red appeared. cya test was easy as well. the dot wasn't not visable at 4.5 level so i think cya is ok. any tips? the pool store is closed today. chem geek or backglass--any help to get a fc reading? more bleach?!? also, after i get this under control(hopefully before the snow starts) i would love to get your opinion in a weekly maintance program. ty sooo much.


Backglass
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Posts: 727
Joined: Tue 29 May, 2007 09:02

Re: taylor k test kit

Postby Backglass » Thu 05 Jul, 2007 09:35

robinixie wrote:o.k test kit arrived early. here are the #'s i got
fc-0
ph-7.4
ta-180
hardness-??
cya-4.5
no trace of pink appeared when i did fc so i didn't continue to step 3...right?? ph test was easy to do & read. ta test was just as easy 18 drops then turned red. ta is high, (water is cloudy) but i believe it goes down w/ rain and shouldn't be an issue. completely didn't understand cal. hardness test at all. after step 3 no red appeared. cya test was easy as well. the dot wasn't not visable at 4.5 level so i think cya is ok. any tips? the pool store is closed today. chem geek or backglass--any help to get a fc reading? more bleach?!? also, after i get this under control(hopefully before the snow starts) i would love to get your opinion in a weekly maintance program. ty sooo much.


Please post your pool size and type again.

You need chlorine fast or your problems are going to multiply quickly. You say your CYA is 4.5...I am assuming you meant 45 as I don't think the tests go much lower then 20. Assuming it IS 45, you want to stay away from pucks and stick with bleach for chlorine. as you are getting close to the high side.

You are right that your TA is high...you should start aerating to raise your ph, so you can then use the acid treatment and get it down.

First and foremost though is the chlorine. You need to get it up to shock values and keep adding chlorine until it stays there for at least 24 hours with your filter/pump running 24/7.

Are you sure there isn't any organic matter in your pool? Leaves/dirt/etc down on the bottom?
robinixie
Pool Enthusiast
Pool Enthusiast
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed 27 Jun, 2007 21:29

test kit

Postby robinixie » Thu 05 Jul, 2007 20:47

had water tested today...all in balance. a slight fc reading was detected, not quite a 1 but i am happy to finally see a reading. there isn't any thing in bottom of pool, water was crystal clear until yesterday it became extremely cloudy. then to top it all off my pump went this evening! i am waiting to see whats in store tomorrow when the pool store reopens. i have a 20,000 gal. fiberglass. cart. filter 1.5 horse pump i have always used 3 in. stabalized pucks. my "normal" weekly routine has been clean cart./shock, aligitec 50, metal remover, phos-free. am i doing something wrong?
Backglass
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Swimming Pool Superstar
Posts: 727
Joined: Tue 29 May, 2007 09:02

Re: test kit

Postby Backglass » Thu 05 Jul, 2007 21:36

robinixie wrote:had water tested today...all in balance. a slight fc reading was detected, not quite a 1 but i am happy to finally see a reading. there isn't any thing in bottom of pool, water was crystal clear until yesterday it became extremely cloudy. then to top it all off my pump went this evening! i am waiting to see whats in store tomorrow when the pool store reopens. i have a 20,000 gal. fiberglass. cart. filter 1.5 horse pump i have always used 3 in. stabalized pucks. my "normal" weekly routine has been clean cart./shock, aligitec 50, metal remover, phos-free. am i doing something wrong?


If you only have a FC of "not quite 1" then something is living in your water and eating your chlorine (so to speak). You need to satisfy your pools chlorine demand.

Be careful of the pucks. Your CYA is already 45. The pucks contain CYA. Over time it accumulates (it doesn't degrade or go away). When your CYA gets above 50 it takes more and more chlorine to do the same thing until eventually you get "chlorine lock" where the chlorine just refuses to work anymore. Thats why I said at this point you should avoid pucks and go with unstabilized chlorine (aka bleach).

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