Had black algea, now I don't know what it its---HELP!

Algae problems in swimming pool water.
Green (cloudy) water or slimy pool walls.
Black algae. Mustard algae. Pink or white pool mold.
Kasey

Had black algea, now I don't know what it its---HELP!

Postby Kasey » Tue 28 Aug, 2007 10:44

I had black algea in the bottom of my diamond brite pool. Bought silver algeacide, used as directed and now have something tan to brown colored with what looks like twigs running thru it, have brushed the pool w/wire brush and am dumping muriatic acid in---all other levels have checked out fine---can you tell me what else to do please?


Backglass
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Postby Backglass » Tue 28 Aug, 2007 12:22

Why are you adding the acid...is your PH high?

Please post a full set of test numbers....
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Kasey

Had black algea, now I don't know what it is---HELP!

Postby Kasey » Tue 28 Aug, 2007 14:19

Backglass wrote:Why are you adding the acid...is your PH high?

Please post a full set of test numbers....


I am adding the acid as the pH was high---7.8, plus Pinch A Penny said to throw in one quart for four days
The following are test numbers:
Total Chlorine: 2.0
Free Chlorine: 2.0
Combined Chlorine: 0.0
Acid Demand: 1
Total Alkalinity: 150
Calcium Hardness: 190
Stabilizer: 40ppm
Salt: 2400ppm

Hope this will give you a picture of what is going on, thank you!
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Postby fatybabe » Wed 29 Aug, 2007 00:55

You should rub some chlorine or bromine tabs on the area affected by black agea but at first use your metal brush to scrap the surfaces before you do so.

That will rid yr black algae.
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Postby chem geek » Wed 29 Aug, 2007 11:52

Excellent advice for black algae. And by chlorine tabs, these are Trichlor, not Cal-Hypo (i.e. not HTH Duration tabs). The concentration of acid and chlorine from the Trichlor is effective against black algae. Be sure to brush between applications as you need to remove the slime layer to expose areas underneath to the high chlorine levels from the Trichlor.

Black algae grows slowly and is usually an indication of too low a Free Chlorine (FC) level relative to the Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level over an extended period of time (and this can be caused in local areas of the pool with poor circulation). So check your chemistry levels and try and maintain a minimum FC of 7.5% of the CYA level -- a target FC of 11.5% of the CYA level is more conservative for manually dosing (most SWG pools can get away with an FC level of around 4.5% of the CYA level).

Richard
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Postby mr_clean » Wed 29 Aug, 2007 17:02

I would just be carefull when doing this "rubbing tab" on spot or letting it sit on spot for a while, as depending on what color your diamond brite pool plaster is it can lighten/fade color.
one thing you can do is call the company who did plaster and ask what they suggest to be safe.
Normal black algae treatment for white plaster pools uses 99% trichloro granular that sits on it.
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Postby fatybabe » Wed 29 Aug, 2007 21:25

Another but more expensive way of doing this is introducing some Black Algea Killers, some copper based but be careful too much might cause you staining.

There are some more expensive brands which the copper based algae killers bonds differently which prevents from staining however as i have said they are expensive.
Kasey

Can anyone tell me what has happened?

Postby Kasey » Thu 30 Aug, 2007 09:16

Thanks everyone for your help, but now I have MORE tan/brown spots in the bottom of my pool, don't know what to do next----HELP!!!!! Can these be a milder or broken down form of the original black algea and the treatment just was not enough to clear up the problem, or is this mustard algea from the black algea?
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Postby mr_clean » Thu 30 Aug, 2007 15:53

I would think it's more black algae that has spread. Did you scrub them and they stay there? Have you retested chemicals to see where your at?
Just scrubbing once and adding chemicals once does not mean it's cured.

Daily chemical testing
daily brushing (2-3 times) with metal brush over algae spots and chemical treatment is going to be the way.

you should make sure bottom drain is circulating as much as possible and keep ph around 7.0 to 7.2 to make chlorine stronger only while fighting algae spots and then return to norm.

If the spots are big, rub tab on it and then let tab sit on top for a few hours.Make sure tab is not going to touch to much clean plaster or it can fade it. If rubbing tabs and letting them sit for a while does nothing at all, it could be a metals problem.

You can also buy the more expensive stuff like said above, but nothing is going to make it leave easy. Normally you need more than 1 treatment when it just lightens it or it is spreading.

The safest bet to not damage plaster is contact builder and see what their advise is so plaster does not get damaged in process of fighting black algae.
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Postby fatybabe » Fri 31 Aug, 2007 01:09

Spread mostly happens with bad circulation and filtration, hwoever before you assume this is algea again a quick check as mentioned in one of the other threads is to use Vitamin C tablets , that way you can confirm the problem before you carry on doing all that scrubbing.

If its an algea problem go as mr clean advised.

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