hoodfigga wrote:Just when I thought I had it all figured out they test my water and give my a Alkalinity result with correction. Here we go again I said to myself. Corrected Alkalinity what the heck. Turns out after some research you should correct your total alkalinity numbers by a percentage of your cya reading to get a true alkalinity number. Am I right. I hope so because I thought my alkalinity was 100 but they corrected it to a much lower number.
So now I need bicarbonate right.
I do have one question about the pool acid they sell. They use sulfuric acid. The container claims it has low odor and fumes, and it does. That muriatic acid got me few times real good right in the lungs. I tried to do some research but I really could not find a reason for using sulfuric acid vs Muriatic acid. Any thoughts??
Lastly I started using a pool blanket in the winter months trying to collect heat and save some penny's on the heat pump bill. What can I expect as far as chemical water changes. More chlorine , less chlorine, acid, alk, what effect does covering the water have on the pool chemistry. If you have any links please provide them.
The adjustment for Total Alkalinity ONLY applies to the calculation for the saturation index, not as an isolated number by itself (as far as "ideal ranges" is concerned -- such ranges having already taken into account the CYA normal range). You can always have a higher Calcium Hardness and/or pH to compensate for a lower TA. An absolute number, even adjusted, is not that useful. I doubt very much that you needed to increase your TA. A higher TA will often lead to a tendency for the pool to rise in pH over time due to the increased outgassing of carbon dioxide (TA is mostly carbonates making a pool essentially over-carbonated, like a lovely tasty beverage!). If you post a full set of numbers (FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, CYA, Temp), then I can give you more info.
I would use Muriatic Acid instead of Sulfuric Acid. Sulfuric Acid results in an increase in sulfates whereas Muriatic Acid results in an increase in chloride (salt). The sulfates aren't bad, but in higher concentrations may cause some problems though this is not definitive, but I'd rather just avoid that issue entirely. As for the fuming of Muriatic Acid, you can either just use it making sure you are upwind from it or hold your breath (or breath turned away) or use a lower fuming Muriatic Acid -- you can get half-strength that doesn't fume as much, but you need to use more and it costs almost the same. You won't be adding acid that often (or shouldn't be) so if you want to use the Sulfuric Acid you've already bought, that's fine.
It sounds like you've hit upon a reasonable method for cleaning your filter.
The main change with a pool blanket is less evaporation of the water and protection of the chlorine from breakdown from sunlight. So fill water amounts should drop and chlorine usage should drop, though in the winter it drops anyway due to lower temperatures. One thing you might notice is that the pH rises as the water temperature lowers ( from around 7.5 to 7.8 ) and that is normal even if the pool is covered.