What voltage should salt-cell be supplied?

Chlorinating, maintaining the right chlorine levels,
chlorine problems. Dichlor, trichlor, cal hypo, bleach,
granules, chlorine pucks and chlorine sticks.
yumingtian

What voltage should salt-cell be supplied?

Postby yumingtian » Sun 18 Nov, 2007 02:51

Hi,

I am having trouble with the salt-cell not producing any chlorine. No bubbles come from it, have checked the connections and it is fine. Wondering whether the power supply for it is dead since it is only supplying around 250mV (checked it with a multimeter)

Does anyone know what voltage it should be supplied? I'm trying to figure out whether the power supply or the salt cell is gone since the cabling seems to be fine.

Thanks in advance


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mr_clean
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Postby mr_clean » Sun 18 Nov, 2007 10:37

I am having trouble with the salt-cell not producing any chlorine. No bubbles come from it, have checked the connections and it is fine. Wondering whether the power supply for it is dead since it is only supplying around 250mV (checked it with a multimeter)

Does anyone know what voltage it should be supplied? I'm trying to figure out whether the power supply or the salt cell is gone since the cabling seems to be fine.


first thing, what brand salt cell?
most of the ones I see are 30-35 volts & 22-26 when chlorine is being generated.
Does your system show any warning indicator lights on like low-salt, inspect cell, high salt?
When salt gets to low or to high some generators will shut off, also when water is really hot or to cold the same can happen.
Have you cleaned cell?
the cell plates do get calcium buildup so using a 50-50 mix of water & acid in bucket & letting it soak for a very short time until clean can fix things.
Chemical balance helps, keeping CYA/conditioner at 80 in salt pools keeps chlorine in pool & helps generator to work less & last longer.
lower side of scale PH & TA will also help with calcium buildup on plates of cell & some brands state they want PH 7.2
How old is cell?
you may have a warranty on it if fairly new, remember the owners manuel does have good info normally for product.
yumingtian

Postby yumingtian » Mon 19 Nov, 2007 07:09

most of the ones I see are 30-35 volts & 22-26 when chlorine is being generated.


Ah! It must be the power supply unit. The salt-cell is clean and appears to be fine.

Was wondering about that since the timer stopped working on it about 4 years ago (the rest worked so i just got one of those mechanical timers).

Time for a new box by the looks.

Thanks for your help!
BlindSite
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Postby BlindSite » Wed 21 Nov, 2007 03:31

Before you rush out and buy a new box, you might just need repairs.

There's pigtail fuses that can go in some boxes and will set you back about 11 dollars, cheaper than a few hundred for a control box.

If your cell is over 5 years old it might just be at the end of its life.

get these things checked before you fork out money for a new chlorinator.
Strannik-au
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Location: Brisbane, Australia

Postby Strannik-au » Sun 06 Apr, 2008 08:29

if it was the cell he would have had high voltage and no current

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