home made pool heater

[Thomas74]

I'm interested in hooking up 400' of 2" Abs pipe and have it flow naturally with a syphon instead of the costly water pump. Any feed back on this approach???

[newpoolguy]

I just built a coil solar heater, but haven't gotten good results with it yet. I ran 2" PVC lines up to the roof (with a check valve IMMEDIATELY after the filter to prevent backflow when the pump shuts off). I have a ball valve on the upflow, and a bypass ball valve so I can divert some, all, or none of the water to the roof. I made 4 coils out of 3/4" poly tubing from lowes (around $20 for 100' coil) The coils are connected to two headers. The headers are 2" PVC with a Tee and a threaded 3/4 reducer, Using the pex 3/4 male threaded connector to connect to the headers. The coils are held together with pvc electrical conduit (2 -10' sections cut in half) and they form an X on both sides of the coil, and are bolted with five bolts. One in the center, and 1 on all the ends. I thought 4 would equal the same flow as my 1.5" pool line, but the pressure spiked for 10 psi to 20 psi so I had to open the diverter valve to allow some of the water to bypass the roof. I don't want to burn out my pump. I bought enough PVC to make 2 more coils, but I'm gonna use 1/2 inch this time. I might be able to make 200' coil in the same space as a 100' 3/4. If that's the case, I can collect more heat, and build one more, as that is all my roof will hold. If it works better, I can rebuild the existing 100 ft 3/4" ones with 200' 1/2inch. I will only be out $80 for the 3/4 coils. I'm sure I could use them for drip irrigation in the garden i want to build in a few years anyway.

[Me...]

You don't mention an air bleeder. Up top you need to have a valve to bleed the air out of the system. Your pressure will spike quite a bit until the water starts flowing back down the other side.

[newpoolguy]

I did not put an air bleed valve at the top, and I've been thinking about that. What would you suggest I use? I did not see anything in the pvc aisle I that would work. I did install a check valve (much smaller than 2", on the top end of the manifold I reduced it to 1/2") to let air back in when I cut off the flow (usually around 7 at night when the shadow of the higher roof starts to cross over). I did think about getting the air out. I just figured it would push out when the pump kicked back on, but a bleeder would definitely help out the pump.

[Me...]

Find a shop that has parts for radiator / hydronic heating systems. They will have automatic air bleeders you can use.

[SNAKEBIT]

Ok I have 250' of 3/4" black hose on my roof now. I used it to fill the pool warm up the well water on its way to the pool. now I want to cut into the line BUT WHERE?
inground
POOL: 18 x 38
depth 3' - 9'
pump with 1-1/2" pipe goes to
sand filter to 1-1/2" to
heater 2" in & out reduced to 1-1/2" to
pool two inlets

Would like to run hose heater all the daytime and have the possiablity to turn on the gas heater for help?
how do I get the best HEAT out of the gas heater?
someone told me I had to slow the water down? by bypassing the heater? sound like this would just mix hot water with cold? I will check tonight on my heater brand and size.
Snake

[SNAKEBIT]

anybody on where to plumb in?
was thinking of after the heater in the return line to the pool?
tee in the line go to the hose heater
between tees install valve to slow return water and force it up the hose to the roof
tee for the return hose heater line

line from gas heater to pool would have:
tee going to hose heater
valve to pressurize hose heater
tee for return hose heater water

[Me...]

Typically you would send filtered water to a Solar Heater or Heat Pump first, then have it return into a gas heater. Solar set at maybe 85 degrees and the gas heater set at something like 83 degrees. The idea is that if the cheap heat source can't maintain the temperature you want, the gas heater will kick in to help. Also have multiple heater running during a heating session.

[emoliver]

I have been reading through the posts, but would love for someone to reply with the basic details for making my own pipe-based solar heater. I work from home and I am a mom of an 18-month old and it's hard to find the time to sift through the posts for what I need. So I'll shut up, give the details and hope for a great reply with a great, basic set-up that will warm up our pool. Would love to see some pictures too.

Specs: Intex Above Ground Easy Set 8' x 30" pool, so it's small and hopefully easy to warm up. Holds 639 gallons. Using the pump that came with it, pumps 530 gal/hr and the tubing that connects is approx 1.25" in diameter.

Last summer the pool just never got quite warm enough using a solar blanket. Top layer was good, bottom was too cold for my son to enjoy it. Don't have the funds to buy anything to heat it and want to try making a solar pipe heater. I plan on keeping the pipes on the ground, happy to mount to a small plywood piece or something so I can tilt it to face the sun throughout the day, etc.

I appreciate the help very much! And don't doubt me just b/c I'm a chick...in the past I've worked as a bike mechanic, computer technician...so I'm good with tools and details. But, I'm not creative enough to get this going on my own.

Thanks!!
em

[emoliver]

Me again.

So I've continued to research even though time is tight. I've thought to run the regular line that takes water from the pool to the pump. Then, from the pump after it's filtered I would connect some irrigation hose that's flattened in a spiral and that will feed the pool.

One store has 1" tubing, 100' long. How do I know my pump is strong enough to push water through that length?

Also, most people seem to be using 1/2" or 3/4" tubing, is 1" too much? Do I need the smaller diameter so the transfer of heat is better from the tubing to the water?

If I go with tubing that's smaller in diameter than the current tubing for the pump, how does that impact the pump and movement of water? Could I damage the pump?

So many questions.....I'll continue to research but hope someone posts a reply soon.

Thanks!

em

[handySteve]

Hello,
It is important not to reduce the size of the hose to the point that it overworks the pump.
I just put a home made pool heater on the roof of my shed. It is holding 250’ of 1/2” black tubing in a 4’x4’ panel (using an X of wood over the top of it to keep everything in place). I used 2 of them for my 25’ round pool and plan on adding 2 more. It is about 6’ higher than my pool and I used a 1” line to supply the 2 panels of 1/2” line.

To get the water moving I suggest using a large Tee in the shape of a Y after the filter that is the same size as the current line. Continue to run the main water line to the pool using the straight section of the Y connecter with no obstructions. My heater is 6’ higher than the pool and I have no trouble with water flow to the heater with this method (after the system is primed). It is partly because I have an eyeball type diverter in the pool that causes a little back pressure in the line. The second end of the Y connector should be reduced to at least ¾ or ½ with a shut off ball valve of the smaller size just before the black pipe so that it can be shut off when you do not want it to run. If you are laying the hose at the same level as the pool you will defiantly get enough pressure to make the water run through it. If not, put another valve on the main line before the water returns to the pool and close it slightly (not all the way). I suggest starting with 200 feet of 1/2 “ tubing at first and add to it if needed. I just ran the return end over the side of the pool using a couple of 90 degree push on connectors, but if you have a child you could run it back into the skimmer to avoid scalding anyone. Only do that if you have a continuous flow back into the pool or you will overheat the pump. I used a frame of 2x2 lumber on a light plywood backing 4' square. All if it is painted with exterior primer and FLAT BLACK paint. Get it up off of the ground at least 2” so that the ground does not steal any of the heat.

Tips
– When connecting the PVC parts make the sections at least 3” long so that they will bottom out in the other pieces.
-put clear plastic over the top to help hold in the heat after the heater is working

Parts list - from hardware store unless noted otherwise.
1/2” or 3/4” black tubing (at least 200’) I prefer 1/2 because it is more flexible so that is what I will refer to for the rest of this
Y connecter ** (same size as current pipe – it’s a T in the shape of a Y in case you have not seen one before) Water flow will start at the bottom of the Y.
2 threaded hose connectors (from pool supply store) **
2 Threaded inserts for Y connector **
1 short pool hose like the existing hose & clamps (from pool supply store) **
Reducer for Y to make one output 1/2”
Short section of 1/2” PVC to help connect parts
1/2” Female thread to insert into valve
PVC cleaner & PVC cement (only need a little but make sure it is the correct type or universal cement)
Teflon tape
Push on fitting for end of 1/2“ pipe with male threads that will fit into the female thread after the ball valve
Push on connector to connect the sections of hose
Sheet of plywood 4’x4’ and 4 pieces of 2”x2”x4’
Exterior Primer
FLAT black exterior paint (I primed and painted the wood first)
Good music and an ice cold drink

I heard 100’ fits in a 3’ square and 200’ fits in a 4’ square.

** designates same size parts

[stoney 417]

i have been thinking of this for awhile where i work i can get black 55 gal .drums plastic .useing 2 or3 inline or running coils of black pipe inside with or without waterin the drums useing a spear pump to get the water to go through would this work . i have also heard of useing copper pipe and a fire pit to heat the water thank for the help

[gadget man]

Can anyone give suggestions to a home made pool heater using black pipe on a roof. What size pipe should I use to maintain proper pressure and not to over work my pump? Any suggestions would be great

Thanks

[130mechanic]

I have built a redneck solar heater recently. I used 200 ft of 1/2 inch black polyethylene tubing (water pipe for sprinklers). I layed them flat in coils and coupled them together on an old door that I had painted flat black. Through various fittings I adapted the piping up to the size of my pool filter pump outlet hose. It is about 1 1/8 inches. I just cut into the outlet hose and spliced the heater between the pump and the pool with some hose clamps. The heater works great, but the flow of water has been significantly decreased. I have decided that maybe another pump between the heater and the pool might be the answer.

[spyder]

I have 1000 feet of 1" poly 75psi (cheap stuff) in two 500 foot coils lying directly on roof, held in place directly with clips that are tarred and nailed. Used pressure treated ballusters, they are slighty taller than the pipe to hold it up there. That length give me about 24000 btu per hour of heat. I put up 4 gallons imp per minute using a small booster pump, main pump is too small for my type of pool. The things to watch out for are size of pipe vs water speed, faster the water, more drag, or in the trade referred to as head which easy language is anything that impedes flow. With 1", I could get up to 10 gpm without too much drag, after that, hard on pump, since a normal pool pump puts out 6000+ gallons and hour, trying to drive that much through a small pipe is hard on the pump. A diverter valve is required to backup the pressure just enough to get the flow required. This valve is installed after the tee for the roof, as the roof had height, the water depending on head of installation may have enough to get there on its own, but usually a small restriction is all that is required. If one had help, an 8 X 8 square mounted with the pipe in a circle is the best way, can also be mounted off the shingles, so they don't rot. You can do this on ground as well, and you can add as many as you need. Just remember don't let the flow get too high. If you have questions please send along to spyder1@cogeco.ca