Hydraulic Problem? Unbalanced equipment power?

[turbomango]

I don't recall ever having such a hard time opening the pump basket top or the filter top to clean the

element. I have to use a rubber mallot for both or there's no way.

I'm concerned that this may be a symptom of something else wrong due to the high PSI the cartridge

filter is registering. Granted, I don't know how high the PSI was before, since we didn't use the pool

much since we moved in, in 2000. Actually, we didn't use it. It's been green.

Three weeks ago I started cleaning up the pool. I started by replacing the PSI meter since the old one

was not registering and would be hard to read anyway bcz of a very cloudy, crackled yellowed face. I

also replaced the filter element with a Home Depot one.

After removing the mountain of dead algea, I treated with PoolTime's Algicide 50% and have been

vacuuming to waste every other day, constantly cleaning the filter every hour and maintaining a 5 ppm

chlorine, it's been 3 weeks, yet no clear water. Now I wonder if I should upgrade and purchase the 120

sq ft Hayward or the 150 sqft Pentair or should I go with a 90 sq ft or less filter?. Which brings me to

be concerned with the correct hydraulics for this system. I want to make sure the right pump and size

filter is put in since some old solar heater and a gas heater are no longer attached and in use.

I have an in-ground 27x 13, concrete 10,500 gal pool, 6 @ deepest end. It has a whilrpool section as

well with a blower and 3 inlets. Considering the high water table on our barrier island, the concrete pool

deck is elevated approx 3 feet. The pipes run underground along the side of the pool deck, which

makes it 3 feet below the water line, although the pump sits on a slight elevation of cinderblocks,

bringling it almost level with the pool line, but not quite. 2" pipes are hooked on to a 1+1/2 HP

(3450RPM) GE pump, and onto a Hayward C-1100 (100 sqft effective filtration and 100 sqft design flow

rate, Max PSI 50).

Is the pump too strong and could it be causing a more intense water velocity than is necessary? When

we moved in in 2000, the pool was hooked up to pipes leading to a Solar Heater on the roof of the

house about an extra 20 feet away. It wasn't long after a hurricane took it and our roof, so we removed

the Solar Heater and hooked the pool up to an existing gas water heater, less than 10 feet away from

the pool just past the pump and filter. The heaters might have required a 1+1/2 pump whereas now?.

When I put the new cartridge in, it initially registered at 20 PSI. I keep it as clean as the first day of

purchase. With the only difference being it's wet, an hour after its first use, the filter started registering

30 at startup. Now it's registering at 35 at startup. As well, the filter HAS HAD a hairline crack at the

point where the pipe from the pump comes into it. The hairline is now causing a 6" loss in pool water on

a 6 hour day of filtering.

Does it sound like a I have a bigger problem than just needing a new filter?

What size filter should I go for, the bigger one or the smaller one - or -
in the interest of my pipes, should I get a pump with less punch? Like a 1 HP?

Does anyone know a link to a chart of RMP = GPM?

Turbomango
Mother of two Maltese Champs

[mr_clean]

the new filter cartridge went to 30 from a normal 20 do to all the algae you had in pool. Having to clean it as much as you say means it is small & upgrading to a bigger/oversized filter will mean only once/twice a year cleaning as long as pool is balanced.
A better way to clean cartridge now algae is gone is to buy a filter cleaner & soak cartridge in it then spray with garden hose which will help it last longer before next cleaning. Here is a filter chart
Having a cracked pipe going from pump to filter can be fixed or just replaced if you get new pump which you would down size to 1HP. The new pumps are much stronger than the older ones so down sizing is needed.
here is pump chart