no chlorine

Chlorinating, maintaining the right chlorine levels,
chlorine problems. Dichlor, trichlor, cal hypo, bleach,
granules, chlorine pucks and chlorine sticks.
no.name please

chlorine not reading

Postby no.name please » Fri 29 Jun, 2007 21:32

If your PH is too high - the chlorine might not be showing up on your tester. Hope this helps


spike

low FC

Postby spike » Sun 01 Jul, 2007 20:46

CYA has dropped to 60-70 from 85. PH 7.2
Using liquid chlorine only. Presently shock daily at 20ppm for the past 4 days. Will continue work down the stabilizer. Reading FC 0-.5 ppm and TC 1.5-2.0 ppm as measured in the morning.
What level should you shock at 60-70 stabilizer level?
What level of chlorine should you add daily?
How does total or corrected alkalinity affect the ability to maintain a FC level?

The pool water is cyrstal clear.
Frustrated
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Postby chem geek » Sun 01 Jul, 2007 21:14

Shock level for green algae is about 40% of the CYA level (for yellow/mustard algae it's 60% of the CYA level). However, make sure your DPD chlorine test isn't getting bleached out by diluting your pool water with tap water (or filtered or distilled water). I am surprised you've still got high chlorine demand even overnight with crystal clear water.
spike

no free chlorine

Postby spike » Mon 02 Jul, 2007 14:14

The sample is dipped directly from the pool so I do not expect any diluting of the sample. I've have shocked at 30% not 48% on a CYA of 80.
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Postby chem geek » Mon 02 Jul, 2007 14:53

I'm sorry I didn't make myself clear. I meant that if your chlorine level is above 10 ppm, then the DPD chlorine test (the one where you add 5 drops and it turns red and you measure the intensity of red) can bleach out from the high chlorine levels making you think you have no chlorine when you actually do. The dilution I was referring to would be intentional where you mix, say, one part of pool water with three parts of distilled or filtered water and then do the DPD test and multiply the result by 4.
udontknowhodou

lots of money to fix it

Postby udontknowhodou » Wed 01 Aug, 2007 22:49

My problem was the same, only to find out that i had the musterd problem, a fine powder like form of alg. LOOK IT UP! It made me drain, raised a phosphate level up and down trying to fight it. SHOCK< SHOCK< SHOCK. the problem is when you get it you have to hit it hard. try using yellow out or yellow treat. then flock it twice and vacum to waste. Follow the directions for yellow out and hit it hard with shock and make sure you raise your ph to 8.4 befor doing the process of yellow out. I would even hit it a third time with in 2 monthes. keep flocing and vacum to waste each time! always check ph and chlorine levels. When you vacum to waste, and readd tap water, the ph goes down. The ph, low or no phosphates, and chlorine are very important factors in killing the mess in a musterd infested pool. hope it helps.
car0407

Postby car0407 » Wed 22 Aug, 2007 23:25

this is my 2nd year that i haven't had a chlorine reading in my 21ft round above ground pool. my water is also crstal clear. whats the big deal if i don't get a reading? the water is clear. why not just go on with no chlorine reading?
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Chlorine level

Postby xbombero » Mon 19 Nov, 2007 17:24

When you start your test if there is a flash of color and then it goes clear the cl2 level is too high for the test kit.

Don
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Re: lots of money to fix it

Postby BlindSite » Wed 21 Nov, 2007 03:33

udontknowhodou wrote:My problem was the same, only to find out that i had the musterd problem, a fine powder like form of alg. LOOK IT UP! It made me drain, raised a phosphate level up and down trying to fight it. SHOCK< SHOCK< SHOCK. the problem is when you get it you have to hit it hard. try using yellow out or yellow treat. then flock it twice and vacum to waste. Follow the directions for yellow out and hit it hard with shock and make sure you raise your ph to 8.4 befor doing the process of yellow out. I would even hit it a third time with in 2 monthes. keep flocing and vacum to waste each time! always check ph and chlorine levels. When you vacum to waste, and readd tap water, the ph goes down. The ph, low or no phosphates, and chlorine are very important factors in killing the mess in a musterd infested pool. hope it helps.


You're better off throwing everything you use in the pool into the water and throwing in a copper algaecide with good benzochronium after lowering the pH to about 7.0ppm.
lehighguy

chlorine

Postby lehighguy » Tue 13 May, 2008 15:07

You also should be looking at you alklinity level. If you have no alklinlity level your pool water is eating through your chlorine to get alkinlinity. I had to put 50 lbs of alkilinity increase last year and my pool leveled itself out and I was back to my once a month chemical checks!!
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same problem 2 yrs in a row

Postby wolf718 » Sun 25 May, 2008 10:25

For the second year in a row I am having a difficult (and expensive) time in getting the chlorine to hold after opening. I have a 16 x 32 (20,000 gallon)inground in northern Indiana. My Pentair filter is five years old and had the sand replaced with Zeobest last year. I had a new winter cover and we have had a very cool spring so far but the water has been green and cloudy since opening.
Here are the readings from first sample:
TDS: 1200
CYA: 50
Total Chlorine: 1.6
Free Chlorine: 1.6
pH: 8
Total Alkalinity: 210
Adj. Total Alkalinity: 195
Based on this they had me add 10lbs. of Super Soluble and 1 pt. of SwimTrine Plus. I also added four gallons of liquid chlorine I had left over from last year.
The next morning my Chlorine level was over 6 but they said that wasn't high enough based on what I added and that it wouldn't hold if I didn't hit it again.
So last night I added 12 lbs. of the 24 lbs. of BurnOut35 they sold me. This morning I am getting a chlorine reading of zero! It's Sunday morning and they will be closed for the next two days due to the holiday. I need to now what to do. I hate to add the other 12 lbs. of BurnOut35 if it is not working. If I need to drain, I would like to get started as soon as possible but I would really like to avoid this.
Any recommendations?
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Postby chem geek » Sun 25 May, 2008 14:38

Did your CYA level drop over the winter and did you "let your pool go" over the winter without maintaining the FC level in it? If so, then soil bacteria may have converted some of the CYA to ammonia. You can get an inexpensive ammonia test kit from a pet/fish/aquarium store. If you have ammonia, then it takes a cumulative amount of FC that is 10x higher than the ammonia amount to break it.
Guest

Postby Guest » Sun 25 May, 2008 18:03

OK, according to the test strip there is ammonia in the water. I would say the amount is in the 1.5 to 2.0 ppm range. Which leads me back to one of my original questions, should I put in the additional 12 lbs. of BurnOut35? If not, what should be my next step?

By the way, thank you for the response. I plan on discussing the issue of maintaining/adding FC while the pool is closed with my pool supplier. They have never recommended I do that :x
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Postby chem geek » Mon 26 May, 2008 00:09

It doesn't matter what source of chlorine you use (except that some sources add extra stuff -- Trichlor and Dichlor add Cyanuric Acid while Cal-Hypo adds to Calcium Hardness). BurnOut 35 is Lithium Hypochlorite which is the most expensive source of chlorine. You could just as easily use chlorinating liquid or unscented bleach, both of which are sodium hypochlorite. You can use The Pool Calculator to calculate dosages.

So, you would need to add around 20 ppm of chlorine to get rid of the ammonia (and the Combined Chlorine you earlier measured). Then, the chlorine should hold after that.

Richard
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Postby wolf718 » Tue 27 May, 2008 20:46

Richard,

Last night I added 7 gallons of unscented bleach and 6 lbs. of BurnOut35.

Tonight, I tested for ammonia and got a zero reading. Unfortunately, I also get a zero reading for chlorine.

If I got rid of the ammonia why is the chlorine not holding? Would lowering the water level some (enough to keep circulation) then adding more bleach be worth trying?

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