ready to bulldoze pool

What is floc, clarifier, stabilizer, cyanuric acid,
algaecide, brightener, dichlor, sodium hypo,
sodium bisulfate, ....??
desperate

ready to bulldoze pool

Postby desperate » Wed 14 May, 2008 18:09

I have had this pool for 21 years. The last couple of years has been a nightmare. I drained the pool completely last year and brushed down the plaster with a wire brush, cleaned it up and refilled it. About 12 months later, I still can't keep it right.

Stats:
free available 1
total available 2
PH 7.2
total alkalinity 220
CYA 40
Tot Dissolved solids 2500

water is cloudy
Last Thursday night I superchlorinated, left town Friday and returned Monday.
Pump ran on low 24 hours a day. Chlorinator used (6) 3" tablets...plus I had two floaters with 3 pills each in the pool.
When I returned Monday, chlorine was .5

I have spent a fortune the last two months on chemicals. Yesterday I had my water tested at 5 pool stores some of the measures were very different.

Consensus is that I need to drain at least 1/3 of my water and put a sealer on the flagstone that touches the pool. One pool person wondered if something is leaching through the plaster (replaster the pool).

If anyone has suggestions, I would appreciate it.
thanx


muss08
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Postby muss08 » Wed 14 May, 2008 20:14

TA is way too high. Is this the same person who has been conferring with chemgeek? If so, you know how to get your TA down. The fact that you are losing so much chlorine tells me your water is still killing organic materials in the pool. Plus with a FC of 1 and a TC of 2 this means you have a combined chlorine of 1. FC+CC=TC. Combined chlorine is a byproduct of chlorine oxidizing organic materials. Keeping your chlorine at the proper level will stop the combined chlorine. With a CYA of 40 your FC needs to be 4ppm. Continue to shock daily until your free chlorine level holds overnight. This will ensure everything is dead. Continue to brush daily and backwash. You need a good test kit- not strips. Taylor K 2006 is the best i've used and can usually be found for about $50-$60. You could switch to using bleach instead of the pucks and even shock. Regular clorox works and should save you a bit of money.
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desperate

Postby desperate » Thu 15 May, 2008 00:02

thanks, and interesting. I did have one store tell me to shock with 8 gallons of liquid chlorine. Does this fall in line with what you are suggesting? I also had two others tell me that since my TDL was 2500 to 3000, nothing I do will help....only drain the pool. They said liquid chlorine would just raise the TDL even more and make matters worse.
desperate

Postby desperate » Thu 15 May, 2008 00:05

Oh, and no I have not been conferring with anybody on-line. I just registered on this site.
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Postby muss08 » Thu 15 May, 2008 06:49

Okay, I thought I saw someone on here with a similar name and similar test results. I apologize because I did not see your TDS readings. 2500 is way too high or if I did I thought it read 250. Chlorine will be VERY ineffective at that level. Normal TDS is 250-1500ppm. It doesnt make sense to me that your TDS would be that high if you just drained it last year. You said you went to more than one store and they all said your TDS was high? Unfortunately the only way to get the TDS down is to drain your pool- i would suggest 3/4- that'll get it down to about 600. 1/3 would only get it down to about 1700 which is still too high. How do you fill your pool? Garden hose? Are you on a well? I would get your fill water tested as well. That may be the problem if the fill water has a high TDS.
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Postby chem geek » Thu 15 May, 2008 10:24

Some things don't make sense. I'm not sure I trust the measured numbers. The pool was completely drained and refilled last year, so how did the TDS get to 2500? TDS is usually mostly salt and is not a problem for chlorine. The reason this became industry lore is that higher TDS was usually associated with older pools where the CYA had built up as well and the blame for problems was on the TDS when it was really the high CYA (without correspondingly higher FC) that was to blame. What is important is not TDS itself, but what the TDS is composed of -- bicarbonate (TA), cyanuric acid (CYA), calcium hardness (CH), salt (sodium chloride). Water that is older can build up organics some of which may not fully dissolve [EDIT] or get oxidized [END-EDIT] so that can be cloudy, but normal chlorine and filtration take care of them in most cases.

There was no measurement of Calcium Hardness. The Total Alkalinity (TA) is already high so if the CH is high then if the pH rises one could get cloudiness or scaling. As muss08 mentioned, please, please, please get yourself a Taylor K-2006 test kit for a good online price here or the TF100 kit from tftestkits(dot)com here with the latter kit having 36% more volume of reagents so comparably priced "per test".

When you say you superchlorinated, what kind of chlorine did you use (brand and product name)? The fact that you aren't holding chlorine and the water is cloudy does point to a pending algae bloom. If the CYA measurement were accurate at 40 ppm, then shocking to a Free Chlorine (FC) level of 16 ppm would be appropriate and then keep adding chlorine to hold that FC and filter 24/7 until three things occur: 1) the water becomes clear, 2) there is minimal drop in FC overnight (< 1 ppm), 3) there is minimal measured Combined Chlorine (CC) <= 0.5 ppm.

However, again, get yourself a good test kit since I don't trust those numbers. In the meantime, just use a 16 ppm FC target and use chlorinating liquid or unscented 6% bleach (e.g. Clorox Regular or off-brand Ultra).

Richard
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Postby muss08 » Thu 15 May, 2008 13:19

Always teaching me something new chemgeek. Didnt know about the TDS lore. Dont you love the APSP?
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desperate

Postby desperate » Thu 15 May, 2008 23:46

I tried to reply several times today and kept getting errors. This is a test. then I will send more info
desperate

Postby desperate » Fri 16 May, 2008 00:24

Thank you muss08 and chem geek,

ok, tuesday the 13th I went to 5 pool stores, three of them were Leslie's one was warehouse pools and the fifth was a local. The last two had computerized testing equipment.

Free chl 3 .5 1 .6 1
Tot chl 3 2 2 1.2 1
PH 7.0 7.1 7.2 7.3 7.0
TA 210 250 220 180 225
Hardness 675
CYA 60 200 35 120 150
TDS 3000 2500 2500 2100 2500
phosphate 100

One of the testers expressed a concern that maybe something was leaching through my plaster and that i may need to replaster. She also said that I should not have so many chlorinators. Another thing that has been going on the last couple of years is that the flagstone coping that i have is slick and chalky to the touch where it is touching water Also the bottom ball valve on my lifegard chlorinator only lasts about three weeks and then gets stuck.

Nobody ever uses this pool. I work on it, go to the lake for the weekend and then start all over when I get back.

Thanks to both of you
will
desperate

Postby desperate » Fri 16 May, 2008 00:27

Oh, chem geek, i forgot.

I have gone thru so many chemicals.....I think I super-chlorinated last week with Pool Brand from SAMS. It is a Sodium Dichloro

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