New Pool Owner - Dark Green to Blue-White -To... Now What?

Causes and cures for cloudy swimming pool water.
Milky pool water, white, pink, brown, purple, black cloudy water.

Postby Guest » Fri 30 May, 2008 21:25

seems to me that with the exception of the cloudiness and the CYA being low, the other numbers are normal....

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Postby Denali » Fri 30 May, 2008 22:55

The numbers do look good. Not knowing the FC makes it tough to know if chlorine is needed. Once you've had it tested and know FC, you'll know how to adjust the chlorine.

As I mentioned about the filter, it will work but will require longer run times and more backwashing.

Next time you backwash, add your DE and watch the return lines. If you are seeing cloudy water coming out, there is a problem in the filter. On that filter there is an air relief strainer that is often a problem. By this I mean it can allow DE to pass through the filter and into the pool.

If your FC is the same as the TC then the algae should be dead and it's just a matter of vacuuming and filtering the water.
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Postby muss08 » Sat 31 May, 2008 06:55

Okay, first you HAVE to keep your pool at shock level to get it to clear. With the amount of shock you are using and FC is still reading 0 this usually means the chlorine is being used up very quickly due to alot of organic debris and the fact your CYA is less than 0. The other thing is you need to get a very reliable test kit such as the Taylor K 2006. It is a FAS-DPD tesk kit that tests everything you need and test FC up to 50ppm and down to .2ppm. Cant be beat. If your depths are correct I too come up with about 60,000 gallons which is enormous. Lets guesstimate and say your CYA is 15 at the moment. Your shock level is 11. You can either keep going with the cal hypo shock (but be warned that cal hypo is also going to raise your calcium hardness) or move to regular unscented 6% bleach or a 12 chlorinating liquid. 7.6lbs of cal hypo will get a clean pool of your size to shock level while 10 1/2 gallons of regular bleach will too. You need to shoot for this 11ppm until you get your CYA readings back. Pools in your situation usually go from green/brown to milky blue then begins to clear. The milky blue means there is alot of dead algae as opposed to live algae (green). Keep up the shocking in the morning, aternoon, and definitely at sundown. Once the sun is down you wont lose chlorine to UV rays and the chlorine can really do tis job
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