GREEN WATER - I need a plan of action!!

Algae problems in swimming pool water.
Green (cloudy) water or slimy pool walls.
Black algae. Mustard algae. Pink or white pool mold.
starski
Pool Newbie
Pool Newbie
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed 28 May, 2008 08:36
Location: Austin, TX

GREEN WATER - I need a plan of action!!

Postby starski » Wed 28 May, 2008 13:45

I AM NOT GIVING UP!
But I need some guidance and am eager to understand what is happening and how to prevent it in the future. I am a new pool owner with a 11,000 gallon in-ground pool and a 1 year old sand filter. We have had this house/pool for 2 years now, and though we've never been able to really keep it clear, this year it's at it's absolute worse. (see pics here: www(dot)gulfdirect(dot)com(slash)pool(slash)pool(dot)htm)

The pool water is very green and cloudy and has been for several weeks. This weekend, at the advice of a local pool store because of high CYA levels, I drained 1/2 of the water, refilled, scrubbed and vacuumed to waste. The water was better, but the next day I had a fine powder of algae on the walls and bottom (recurring problem), and 2 days later it was totally green and very cloudy (see current pic).

Yesterday I went to Leslie's and they gave me a bottle of Black Algae Killer and I put in 10oz. and 1lb of shock. No change today. Now I think this was not the right thing to do because it’s copper-based?. I don't know, but if anything it's worse.

After reading similar posts and seeing some of the results, I think I'm ready to go the bleach route - if that's what you guys recommend. I'm open to anything but I need a plan of action to get this sorted out.

Here are my levels from the pool store on Sunday, after the refill:
FC=3.0
TC=3.0
CC=0.0
PH=7.0
AK=110
CYA=80

Here is what I could measure today with my old kit:
FC=3.0
TC=3.0
PH=7.4
AK=120

Help.... please help.... I don't know how much sanity I have left and we sure would love to actually swim in this mess!

Thanks so much,
Mike - Austin, TX

ps – I am going to order a proper test kit so I can test the water accurately myself, but I wanted to get a jump on fixing this problem. I can get the Taylor K-2005 kit locally now, is it worth the extra time and money to order the K-2006 kit instead?


chem geek
Pool Industry Leader
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Posts: 2382
Joined: Thu 21 Jun, 2007 21:27
Location: San Rafael, California

Postby chem geek » Thu 29 May, 2008 15:55

With a CYA level of 80 ppm, the shock level of chlorine is around 32 ppm (40% of the CYA level) though even half that would be far better than maintaining such a low 3 ppm FC that you currently have. Since you had a half-refill and the CYA is 80, that means it was 160 ppm before so no wonder you got algae with the relatively low FC level for that CYA level.

You have several choices -- you can do further partial drain/refill to lower the CYA more or you can use a higher level of chlorine to shock the pool. You can read more about clearing a green pool here . If the algaecide you used did contain copper, then that could end up staining when you raise the chlorine level high.
slprncess

Postby slprncess » Thu 29 May, 2008 22:22

Ok so I have posted simular posts for the same problem. I got a reading today from Leslies (aka...stupidest people in the world) and here is what it read.

FAC: 0
Ph: 8.0
TA:90
Hardness: 180
CYA: 40

I have brand new system 3 filters. Before I do anything with them I need to know exactly what I should do. At leslies they told me to shock it and not put liquid chlorine in it at all. I told them that the last time I used their shock that they recommended it turned my whole pool white and didnt get it back to somewhat clear for 2 weeks. Do I also need to use a algacide? If so what should my coarse of action be first? The algacide then the liquid chlorine or vise versa?

I dont want to waste time or money. Any input would be appreciated. My pool is apx 15000 gallons in ground.

Thanks
slprncess

Postby slprncess » Thu 29 May, 2008 22:24

one more question. the liquid chlorine from walmart or home depot says it is 10% the active ingredient which is like hypochlorite or something like that. and the other % Is all other ingredients. Is that ok or is there ones out there that are more % of the active ingredient?
chem geek
Pool Industry Leader
Pool Industry Leader
Posts: 2382
Joined: Thu 21 Jun, 2007 21:27
Location: San Rafael, California

Postby chem geek » Fri 30 May, 2008 02:09

1) Add Muriatic Acid to lower the pH to at least down to 7.5 -- 7.2 would be OK since you will be shocking with chlorine.

2) Add liquid chlorine (chlorinating liquid or unscented 6% bleach) to get to an FC level of 16 ppm and hold it there by continuing to add chlorine as it gets used up (which it will rather quickly at first). Read the Sticky post I linked to.

The chlorinating liquid you refer to is fine -- it's 10% sodium hypochlorite. The inert ingredients are salt and water which is normal for this type of chlorine.
slprncess

Postby slprncess » Sat 31 May, 2008 18:07

my test kit that i have measures the chlorine level from 0.6/1.3-5.0/11.0 and gives colors associated with it. the ph goes from 6.8-8.2. do i need a different test kit? for a 15,000 gallon pool how many gallons of liquid chlorine would you suggest to start out with? I tried the calculator thing but it wasnt working for me.

quote="chem geek"]1) Add Muriatic Acid to lower the pH to at least down to 7.5 -- 7.2 would be OK since you will be shocking with chlorine.

2) Add liquid chlorine (chlorinating liquid or unscented 6% bleach) to get to an FC level of 16 ppm and hold it there by continuing to add chlorine as it gets used up (which it will rather quickly at first). Read the Sticky post I linked to.

The chlorinating liquid you refer to is fine -- it's 10% sodium hypochlorite. The inert ingredients are salt and water which is normal for this type of chlorine.[/quote]

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