Which chlorine & why?

Chlorinating, maintaining the right chlorine levels,
chlorine problems. Dichlor, trichlor, cal hypo, bleach,
granules, chlorine pucks and chlorine sticks.

Which chlorine do you use in your pool?

Trichlor - granules, tabs, pucks
256
39%
Dichlor
64
10%
Cal Hypo
80
12%
Chlorinating liquid
145
22%
Bleach - supermarket style
112
17%
 
Total votes: 657
brianVLX

Which chlorine & why?

Postby brianVLX » Fri 28 May, 2010 22:58

I'm wanting to switch from Trichlor to Liquid Chlorine. I have a 30,000gal above ground pool. How do I determine how much liquid chlorine to dump in? And do I do this daily?? Any tips or info would be appreciated!

thanks,
Brian


chem geek
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Which chlorine & why?

Postby chem geek » Sat 29 May, 2010 02:07

You can use The Pool Calculator to calculate dosages. If you don't use a partially opaque (say, blue as opposed to clear) pool cover, then you will need to add chlorine every day or two. I have a mostly opaque cover and add it twice a week. You can add it less frequently if you have more chlorine swings or you can automate chlorine dosing using The Liquidator or a peristaltic pump or a saltwater chlorine generator.

You can use the Trichlor tabs/pucks when you go on vacation (for about a week) and can use them occasionally if your CYA gets low from water dilution. You can use Cal-Hypo when you want to raise your Calcium Hardness (CH). Read the Pool School for more info on how to maintain your pool.

A 30,000 gallon pool is rather large so the chlorine quantities will be high unless you use a pool cover that is at least partially opaque to the UV rays in sunlight. You can reduce chlorine loss from sunlight with a higher CYA level, but that gets risky if the FC gets low. The main point is to learn about your options and the effects of different chlorine sources and figure out what works best for you.
brianvlx

Which chlorine & why?

Postby brianvlx » Sat 29 May, 2010 18:57

Thanks for the input! Here is another for you....what's your opinion on "The Liquidator"???? I've tried to search for some reviews, etc...but haven't found much useful info other than how it works (which i found on the company's website). Do they work? Any issues with them? Costs? Where do you get them?

Any input would be appreciated!!
chem geek
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Which chlorine & why?

Postby chem geek » Sun 30 May, 2010 02:58

It works for some people but not for everyone. You can read more about it at this thread , this thread and this thread .

There is an upgrade to the tubing in both quality and size (1/2" to 3/8") that is essential and unfortunately you have to do yourself. To minimize the amount of calcium deposits in the output valve, one can use 50 ppm Borates, keep the saturation index slightly negative, and/or use 6% bleach instead of 10%/12.5% chlorinating liquid. However, some of those using the Borates have been able to use chlorinating liquid. Also, get the 8-gallon unit.

The Liquidator is sold here for around $180. You can see an instruction manual here .
PBROWN

Which chlorine & why?

Postby PBROWN » Tue 14 Dec, 2010 10:17

Liquid Chlorine is a great time proven method of sanitization.
There can be complications in hauling, and leaking.
Sticks are kept in an air tight drum which reduces corrosion
in the pump room. Less trouble to haul for the average pool owner.
Plus, they are already stabilized. But Soda Ash will have to be added
on a regular basis for pH balance.

Thanks,
Pat Brown
chem geek
Pool Industry Leader
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Which chlorine & why?

Postby chem geek » Tue 14 Dec, 2010 20:24

The problem with stabilized chlorine is that you can get a significant buildup of Cyanuric Acid (CYA) over time. If you don't have a lot of water dilution, the buildup can be fairly rapid. The following are factual chemical rules that are independent of concentration of product or of pool size:

For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by 7 ppm.

So even with a very low 1 ppm FC per day chlorine usage, after 6 months of Trichlor one adds more than 100 ppm CYA if there is no water dilution.
miguelle
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Posts: 1
Joined: Mon 16 Jan, 2012 16:49
My Pool: 15000 gal pool. Uses DE. Pool has bluish gray bottom with spa and waterfall
Location: Houston, TX

Which chlorine & why?

Postby miguelle » Tue 17 Jan, 2012 07:55

I am a new pool owner as far as owning own pool with no pool guy maintaining it anymore. My husband and I live in a hot HUMID climate. Shock packets were costing us a fortune last summer. Our pool gets heavy usage from kids and their friends. Our pool unfortunately is surrounded with many trees so algae from leaf droppings was a huge problem. Also, our pool has a blue bottom so shock granuels were always sinking to the bottom of the pool leaving a white sand film. The pool never looked totally maintaned or clear for more than a day or 2 and still always had algae. UNTIL one day my husband got fed up and went to the grocery store. He came back with a carload of Clorox liquid bleach and end of story!! I was skeptical until I saw the beautiful crystal clear appearance!! I became a true believer after testing the chemical levels twice daily and ph fine along with chlorine levels fine everyday!! Even after swimmers. We will never go back to shock powder. We do however still keep chlorine tablets floating in the floater at all times. This is the only time we visit our local pool store!
chem geek
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Which chlorine & why?

Postby chem geek » Wed 18 Jan, 2012 11:11

Just note that you don't want to use ONLY chlorinating liquid or bleach (or Cal-Hypo or other unstabilized chlorine) if you don't have any Cyanuric Acid (CYA) in the water. You want some CYA in the water not only to protect chlorine from breakdown from the UV in sunlight, but also to moderate chlorine's strength. Otherwise, it will be far too harsh on skin, swimsuits and hair. Read the Pool School for more info including the Chlorine / CYA Chart to know how much chlorine relative to CYA that you need to prevent algae growth (roughly an FC that is a minimum of 7.5% of the CYA level).
czechmate
Swimming Pool Superstar
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Posts: 401
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My Pool: 16 x 32 gunite21000 gal., Diamond Brite Blue, Swimquip XL pump, DE36
Location: Texas

Which chlorine & why?

Postby czechmate » Fri 27 Jan, 2012 19:02

Leslie's in Dallas have a 75% Calcium Hypochloride in a 100# bucket for under 150 dollars. By pound it is 4.99 most places. It is not the only stuff you want to use, but the savings will buy plenty other chemicals!
It should be the same price down in your area.
lucy brightley
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Which chlorine & why?

Postby lucy brightley » Tue 20 Mar, 2012 06:35

Chlorine or Bromine? We've put together a helpful article that looks at the difference between these two pool sanitisers and which one is best for your pool. http://yourpool.co/running/chlorine-or-bromine/

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