Which chlorine & why?

Chlorinating, maintaining the right chlorine levels,
chlorine problems. Dichlor, trichlor, cal hypo, bleach,
granules, chlorine pucks and chlorine sticks.

Which chlorine do you use in your pool?

Trichlor - granules, tabs, pucks
256
39%
Dichlor
64
10%
Cal Hypo
80
12%
Chlorinating liquid
145
22%
Bleach - supermarket style
112
17%
 
Total votes: 657
BillD
Pool Newbie
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Joined: Fri 25 May, 2012 08:30
My Pool: 18 x 36 7/11 pool, 92,000liters, Aqua Genie skimmer, hayward 1 HP pump, original 7/11 24" sand filter
Location: Canada

Which chlorine & why?

Postby BillD » Fri 25 May, 2012 08:51

With my 18 x 36, 23,000 gal pool, I have found that pucks of stabilized chlorine are the cheapest. For the season which runs mid May to mid September, I use one 8Kg pail which costs between $30 and $40 at Costco. I have not noticed a pH shift, although I rarely test anymore, as the routine I have developed over the last 20 years seems to work for the amount of use the pool gets. Basically one puck every other day, with the occasional bottle of bleach for a light shock. Some years I add copper sulphate from the drugstore aiming for 1ppm of copper. I have not added CYA since the second year, nor after the liner replace. Occasionally, I add baking soda to increase the TA. I try and stay as far from the pool store as I can.


andrrewdamien
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Posts: 26
Joined: Tue 08 May, 2012 12:05

Which chlorine & why?

Postby andrrewdamien » Mon 11 Jun, 2012 09:06

BilliBob wrote:I was wondering what folks are using to chlorinate their pools.

Please leave comments with reasons why you use the chlorine that you do.

I use trichlor granules and cal hypo. The trichlor for my stabilized chlorine and then cal hypo. Liquid chlorine always gets watered down where I am so it is an expensive alternative.

BilliBob


A little attempt from you part, using chlorine pills regularly can help you in keeping significant amount of your money and stay healthier as well. So using chlorine tablet is always a smart decision because it is easy and affective in use of any other form of chlorine or pool cleaning material.
paint marker
lightandspace
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Posts: 14
Joined: Tue 15 May, 2012 07:06
Location: Australia

Which chlorine & why?

Postby lightandspace » Wed 04 Jul, 2012 04:54

whats the specific use of chlorine and bleach?
Adolfsmith69
Pool Newbie
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Posts: 6
Joined: Fri 25 Oct, 2013 08:45
My Pool: surface
Location: united arab emirates

Which chlorine & why?

Postby Adolfsmith69 » Fri 25 Oct, 2013 08:50

Chlorine is a highly efficient disinfectant, and it is added to public water supplies to kill disease-causing bacteria that the water or its transport pipes might contain.
GaryB0925
Pool Newbie
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Posts: 4
Joined: Sun 08 Sep, 2013 17:02
My Pool: 10,000 gallon 14x28 ft inground pool. I have a jacuzzi sherlock 80 cartridge filter with a Hayward MaxFlo 1 hp pump.
Location: United States

Which chlorine & why?

Postby GaryB0925 » Sat 16 Nov, 2013 20:48

After maintaining my pool using liquid chlorine for over 10 years, I recently switched to granular chlorine and/or quick dissolving shock and what a difference! The last few years I was having a hard time during the summer keeping my pool water clean and clear. I was also having a constant battle with algae. I switched about 8 months ago now, and I have never looked back. My pool is sparkling clean and the water has great clarity. My algae problems have all but gone away. I had one minor algae issue in the 8 month period and that was during a time where I got distracted from maintaining the pool as closely as I should. It was quickly resolved with a dose of granular chlorine and Natural Chemistry's PhosFree.

Liquid chlorine is mostly salt water with a low percentage of chlorine. Granular chlorine is fast dissolving and a much higher concentrate of chlorine. Thus your pool is sanitized much better with the granular. Further, you don't get the salt solids building up in your pool like you do with liquid chlorine. For me, it's been an eye opener. It's made keeping my water balanced much easier and my pool looks better as a result.

Granular chlorine over liquid chlorine for sure!
chem geek
Pool Industry Leader
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Joined: Thu 21 Jun, 2007 21:27
Location: San Rafael, California

Which chlorine & why?

Postby chem geek » Sun 17 Nov, 2013 15:47

You obviously were not using a sufficient amount of chlorine to get to a Free Chlorine (FC) level high enough for your Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level. There are tens of thousands of pool owners using chlorinating liquid or bleach with no problem if they maintain at least a minimum FC that is 7.5% of the CYA level (5% for SWG pools).

As for granular chlorine, it adds other chemicals in the following proportions:

For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by at least 7 ppm.
czechmate
Swimming Pool Superstar
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Posts: 401
Joined: Sat 16 May, 2009 09:20
My Pool: 16 x 32 gunite21000 gal., Diamond Brite Blue, Swimquip XL pump, DE36
Location: Texas

Which chlorine & why?

Postby czechmate » Thu 09 Jan, 2014 13:33

I would just add one important fact. The difference in selecting between granular or the "pucks" of chlorine should be guided not by price or the strength. Rather the decision should always start by checking which one will keep your investment in a gunite pool out of the harms way. One raises CH, the other CYA. Even at high levels of CYA and CH you can juggle the very important CSI (that alerts you to a potential plaster damage), manipulating PH, CH and CYA. Remember water temperature plays very important role here also!!
(So difference between $1.80 for Calcium Hypochlorite or $2.00 for a Tri-chlor hardly makes difference. It is the $4000-6000.00 price for a new plaster and ton of headaches if not done properly.
Many damages to the plaster occur in the winter months, when pool water looks clear with good color and no algae sign. We than grow complacent and lazy to test.
In 2-3 months gunite surface can suffer enough pitting that will harbor algae in the spring. Like with anything else, consistency in testing and understanding the basic relation of PH,CYA,TA and CH will prevent us from serious drain of our hard earned money.
scott46
Pool Newbie
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Posts: 1
Joined: Tue 08 Apr, 2014 11:20
My Pool: 85,000 gallon inground gunite pool
Location: Oregon

Which chlorine & why?

Postby scott46 » Tue 08 Apr, 2014 11:27

Similar question. We have an 85,000 gallon inground gunite pool. Have been using 3" tabs for years but the chlorinators keep clogging or having other issues. We have used four different tab chlorinators over the past 8 years or so. Considering switching to liquid. I would appreciate anyones comments on feasibility, costs, who sells liquid chlorinators, etc.

Thanks.
Poolspotpro
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Posts: 5
Joined: Fri 15 Feb, 2013 11:12

Which chlorine & why?

Postby Poolspotpro » Fri 26 Sep, 2014 10:07

Use liquid chlorine for shocking(superchlorinating) and 3" tabs for maintaining. Shock when chlorine level gets low which you want to happen often to prevent a combined chlorine build-up. Maintain 1-3 tabs in a floater or chlorinator at all times.
I've built, repaired, and maintained all types of swimming pools for 30+ years. This is my install site http://www.centralfloridaabovegroundpools.com
chem geek
Pool Industry Leader
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Joined: Thu 21 Jun, 2007 21:27
Location: San Rafael, California

Which chlorine & why?

Postby chem geek » Fri 26 Sep, 2014 16:15

The following are chemical facts that are independent of concentration of product or of pool size:

For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by at least 7 ppm.

So if you had 2 ppm FC per day chlorine usage, the CYA would increase by 36 ppm per month if there were no water dilution. If you do not proportionately raise the FC as the CYA level rises to ensure that the FC is at least 7.5% of the CYA level, then algae can grow faster than chlorine can kill it. If your pool is low in algae nutrients (phosphates, nitrates), then a lower FC/CYA ratio will prevent algae growth, but chlorine alone will prevent algae regardless of nutrient level if never below the 7.5% minimum (for non-SWG pools; for saltwater chlorine generator pools, 5% is the minimum FC/CYA ratio).

One can learn much more about this and other subjects by reading Pool School and Certified Pool Operator (CPO) training -- What is not taught .

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