Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Algae problems in swimming pool water.
Green (cloudy) water or slimy pool walls.
Black algae. Mustard algae. Pink or white pool mold.
Denali
Swimming Pool Superstar
Swimming Pool Superstar
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue 29 Apr, 2008 17:14

Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby Denali » Mon 08 Jun, 2009 02:18

Henry_R wrote:pH is in the 7.2 range as of about 10pm, and still in that range at 12:45am. The chlorine is still measuring near 0.5 to 1. The vial is not completely clear when I test it so it must be just low not zero.

Nothing I can do without another dose and I'm out of it. Shy of throwing 1lb of dichlor in there which is not enough for a 22000 gallon pool I have no more chlorine and won't be able to add more until about 6pm due to my schedule today.

A week is a long time for CYA to register.
Does it begin to have effect on chlorine retention sooner than it shows in the test?


From my experience the CYA will register in a day or two. The week I mentioned is probably overstatement but better to wait and see than to add more and get the level too high.

The chlorine tabs will give you some chlorine and some CYA but also lower pH. You can use them and keep an eye on the pH.

From the look of the pool it is moving along even faster than I thought it would which is great.


Henry_R
Swimming Pool Pro
Swimming Pool Pro
Posts: 126
Joined: Fri 20 Mar, 2009 21:41
My Pool: HOA Community Swimming pool built approx. 1971.
In-Ground, Plaster 34x18 3.5-6' deep, Sta-rite P2R A5D-120L pump, A.O. Smith centurion 1HP (uprated 1.25HP) motor,Hayward S244S filter(new 2011), Rainbow Lifegard Chlorine/Bomine feeder; new replastered June 2010
Location: Houston, Texas USA

Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby Henry_R » Mon 08 Jun, 2009 08:25

This morning I tested the TA and CH as well as pH and chlorine again.
pH seems to be moving downwards. TA read close to 30. CH is around 300ppm.
Chlorine is nearly unreadable. There is some color but it's very white.

pH reads in the 6.8 range this time. Lower than last night so I'm going to not do anything to reduce it further is possible. That dry acid should only have reduced it to 7.4 or so. I hope it doesn't go too much lower than 6.8.

The TA test seems to read only 30. So I guess that goes with the pH creeping down. What do I do to increase it some?

I also checked CYA and it seems to be a little higher. If I'm understand the test right the dot is supposed to be clouded over by the water and begin to seemingly dissappear?
This begins now around 50ppm vs getting to the top. SO CYA is moving upwards. Hopefully not too high.
I'm still not certain I'm doing it right though.

The water is also still VERY foamy this morning, but I don't think it looks green; it's not blue yet either though. With some luck my work won't be undone during the day if the chlorine stays (even being at 1 is better than zero right?) put with CYA above 30 at least. The 4lbs of CYA was only supposed to add 10ppm for 2lbs so 20ppm total. With luck it won't overshoot 50-70 and it a few more days I'll get a decent reading.

When I get more chlorine tonight I'll add enough to bring it to shock level and maybe that CYA will let it stay put this time.

BTW, the test kit I'm using is Leslie Pool supply DPD test. I'm not sure how accurate it is. It cost enough: almost $40. It has enough vials for probably a few hundred tests though.
Money talks!? All it ever says to me is "goodbye!".
User avatar
mr_clean
Swimming Pool Superstar
Swimming Pool Superstar
Posts: 398
Joined: Thu 16 Aug, 2007 14:32
Location: So Cal

Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby mr_clean » Mon 08 Jun, 2009 09:48

I think your pool is looking alot better, good job........ :thumbup:

as for conditioner, if it was a "granular" form and you added it threw the skimmer it will take a week or two to fully disolve so backwashing sand filter would release it, so do not. :wtf:

if powder form conditioner (baby-powder) and you added to skimmer will mix within a couple hours.

keep it up and the next thing you know your going to jump in & enjoy your work.
Denali
Swimming Pool Superstar
Swimming Pool Superstar
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue 29 Apr, 2008 17:14

Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby Denali » Mon 08 Jun, 2009 18:06

Henry_R wrote:This morning I tested the TA and CH as well as pH and chlorine again.
pH seems to be moving downwards. TA read close to 30. CH is around 300ppm.
Chlorine is nearly unreadable. There is some color but it's very white.

pH reads in the 6.8 range this time. Lower than last night so I'm going to not do anything to reduce it further is possible. That dry acid should only have reduced it to 7.4 or so. I hope it doesn't go too much lower than 6.8.

The TA test seems to read only 30. So I guess that goes with the pH creeping down. What do I do to increase it some?
I would use some baking soda to raise the TA. The pH will go up a bit which you want also. You want the pH up to at least 7.2. If you haven't found this yet, check http://www.poolcalculator.com/ to figure doses.


I also checked CYA and it seems to be a little higher. If I'm understand the test right the dot is supposed to be clouded over by the water and begin to seemingly dissappear?
This begins now around 50ppm vs getting to the top. SO CYA is moving upwards. Hopefully not too high.
I'm still not certain I'm doing it right though.

The water is also still VERY foamy this morning, but I don't think it looks green; it's not blue yet either though. With some luck my work won't be undone during the day if the chlorine stays (even being at 1 is better than zero right?) put with CYA above 30 at least. The 4lbs of CYA was only supposed to add 10ppm for 2lbs so 20ppm total. With luck it won't overshoot 50-70 and it a few more days I'll get a decent reading.

When I get more chlorine tonight I'll add enough to bring it to shock level and maybe that CYA will let it stay put this time.

Not sure what is causing the foaming but addition of chlorine should take care of it. Chlorine will be used up even with proper CYA level when you are fighting algae. When the algae is all dead is when the chlorine levels will stabilize and you can back off the shock levels.
BTW, the test kit I'm using is Leslie Pool supply DPD test. I'm not sure how accurate it is. It cost enough: almost $40. It has enough vials for probably a few hundred tests though.
Denali
Swimming Pool Superstar
Swimming Pool Superstar
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue 29 Apr, 2008 17:14

Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby Denali » Mon 08 Jun, 2009 18:09

On CYA levels and testing. The test can be hard to read. I would leave the CYA level where it is for now. Test again in a few days and next time you get to a pool store, have it tested and compare with your own testing. Should give you an idea if you're reading the test right.
Henry_R
Swimming Pool Pro
Swimming Pool Pro
Posts: 126
Joined: Fri 20 Mar, 2009 21:41
My Pool: HOA Community Swimming pool built approx. 1971.
In-Ground, Plaster 34x18 3.5-6' deep, Sta-rite P2R A5D-120L pump, A.O. Smith centurion 1HP (uprated 1.25HP) motor,Hayward S244S filter(new 2011), Rainbow Lifegard Chlorine/Bomine feeder; new replastered June 2010
Location: Houston, Texas USA

Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby Henry_R » Mon 08 Jun, 2009 20:40

My neighbor and I wet to get more of the 10% chlorine shock tonight. She's concerned it's getting to be too expensive to use liquid and I'm about to agree; cost was $3.50 per gallon at Lowes.

Can/should I switch to trichlor tabs through the chlorine/bromine feeder tomorrow if I put in the 10% chlorine shock tonight? I have three 3" tablets. I don't want any bad reactions. I also can get dichlor too. That I cannot dispense through the feeder as it states use only trichlor. I'm a bit uncertain what to use given the still somewhat uncertain chemistry balance. How fast will the tabs disolve?
They are 8 oz each. Won't they increase pH some too? My neighbor is right $3.50 per gallon and three at a time to get to shock level according to the poolcalculator is too expensive to continue to use as shock.
Once we get to maintenance level perhaps we can go that route.

I also got a pool brush and I think I'm going to do some before I add more of the liquid shock tonight.
Money talks!? All it ever says to me is "goodbye!".
chem geek
Pool Industry Leader
Pool Industry Leader
Posts: 2382
Joined: Thu 21 Jun, 2007 21:27
Location: San Rafael, California

Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby chem geek » Mon 08 Jun, 2009 21:17

A true cost comparison of different sources of chlorine is here where chlorinating liquid and bleach are actually less expensive than Trichlor and especially Dichlor when you account for the pH balancing product you need (i.e. pH Up or Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda). Only Cal-Hypo is comparable in price or sometimes less expensive, but it will raise Calcium Hardness (CH). Remember the following chemical rules with these other sources of chlorine:

For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by 7 ppm.

With the chlorinating liquid, the pH rises when you add the chlorine, but it will drop back down as the chlorine gets used up. The Trichlor tabs/pucks dissolve too slowly to be used as shock (usually 5 days to dissolve, though with water flow in a skimmer with the pump on 24/7 it can take a couple of days), though you can sometimes get Trichlor in powder form BUT it increases CYA. Dichlor is in powder form and dissolves quickly, but increases CYA. Cal-Hypo should be pre-dissolved in a bucket of water, but it increases CH.

Richard
Denali
Swimming Pool Superstar
Swimming Pool Superstar
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue 29 Apr, 2008 17:14

Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby Denali » Mon 08 Jun, 2009 22:19

chemgeek gives you good info in the post above mine. It will cost you to keep the pool at shock level. I find liquid chlorine to work best and cheapest.

The tabs will LOWER pH, not raise it. Keep that in mind as your pH is already low.

Once the pool is clear the cost to chlorinate drops drastically especially as the pool isn't going to be used.

I know this is tough as it comes out of your pocket and it isn't your pool. One way to look at this is that you're now paying for all the chemicals you didn't put in while it was turning green.
Henry_R
Swimming Pool Pro
Swimming Pool Pro
Posts: 126
Joined: Fri 20 Mar, 2009 21:41
My Pool: HOA Community Swimming pool built approx. 1971.
In-Ground, Plaster 34x18 3.5-6' deep, Sta-rite P2R A5D-120L pump, A.O. Smith centurion 1HP (uprated 1.25HP) motor,Hayward S244S filter(new 2011), Rainbow Lifegard Chlorine/Bomine feeder; new replastered June 2010
Location: Houston, Texas USA

Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby Henry_R » Mon 08 Jun, 2009 23:26

Thank you again.

I'm not terribly concerned with the costs to me. The HOA board cut me a check immediately for the supplies I purchased this weekend. The property manager had business with the president here and left the check for me with her. I deposited it right away. Of couse I spent $32 more on the chlorine and a brush again this time. I brushed the pool till I was sore. The pole I'm using didn't help it's a recycle from another neighbor and it keeps retracting. When I push it it wasn't brushing as hard as Id've liked.
This is the first time I've done this too. Didn't have the brush until now. Hopefully, the 2.5 gallons of 10% chlorine will work again as the 6% began to on Sunday morning. There is still a lot of foam on the surface. It's almost seemed to increase with the addition of the chlorine.

How soon can I get a usable reading of the FC level? First light in the morning?

The costs to shock the pool are increasing though that is the concern to the HOA president.
I've dumped 1.38 gallons 6% bleach on Sat night, 1.38 gallons on sunday morning, 2 gallon of 10%
last night and now 2.5 gallons tonight. Approx. total cost over $28, not to mention gasoline to get to/from Lowes. I don't drive and my neighbor has a pickup so gasoline costs are expensive for her.

I'm not sure if this is a good price or not.

I think I'm going to go shopping online for the 10% chlorine.
I think Lowes' price might not be the best I can do in the end.
Money talks!? All it ever says to me is "goodbye!".
Henry_R
Swimming Pool Pro
Swimming Pool Pro
Posts: 126
Joined: Fri 20 Mar, 2009 21:41
My Pool: HOA Community Swimming pool built approx. 1971.
In-Ground, Plaster 34x18 3.5-6' deep, Sta-rite P2R A5D-120L pump, A.O. Smith centurion 1HP (uprated 1.25HP) motor,Hayward S244S filter(new 2011), Rainbow Lifegard Chlorine/Bomine feeder; new replastered June 2010
Location: Houston, Texas USA

Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby Henry_R » Tue 09 Jun, 2009 11:44

:problem: :wtf:
Once again the chlorine is near zero. I dumped what should have been enough to bring it up to 10ppm last night; two and a half gallons according to the poolcalculator. Either that 10% liquid shock was old
and ineffective or something else is wrong with the water chemistry. There are date codes on the liquid shock bottles. How do I read the codes? The bottles were dirty. Perhaps they were old stock. Is it not true that chlorine degrades in the bottle over time?

How long after adding liquid chlorine should I be able to get a good reading?

The test kit is a DPD type not OTO and I'm wondering if that the problem.
The OTO kit I returned since it was missing it's CYA testing tube(dot tube), but it showed
chlorine at least at 5 or more. The DPD test show no color at all. Even last night after I added all that chlorine there was no reading. Shoudn't there have been some reading?

The pH seems to have stabilized at 7.5 and it's staying put for now.

The water is still murky and still has a seafoam greenish look, at least to my eyes.

The filter pressure has bugged up to 15psi from 12.5psi it was staying at before.
I'm not entirely sure that gauge is accurate either due to it's age.
Money talks!? All it ever says to me is "goodbye!".

Return to “Pool Algae & Green Pool Water”

Who is online at the Pool Help Forum

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests