Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Algae problems in swimming pool water.
Green (cloudy) water or slimy pool walls.
Black algae. Mustard algae. Pink or white pool mold.
Denali
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Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby Denali » Tue 09 Jun, 2009 21:14

Henry_R wrote::problem: :wtf:
Once again the chlorine is near zero. I dumped what should have been enough to bring it up to 10ppm last night; two and a half gallons according to the poolcalculator. Either that 10% liquid shock was old
and ineffective or something else is wrong with the water chemistry. There are date codes on the liquid shock bottles. How do I read the codes? The bottles were dirty. Perhaps they were old stock. Is it not true that chlorine degrades in the bottle over time?

How long after adding liquid chlorine should I be able to get a good reading?

The test kit is a DPD type not OTO and I'm wondering if that the problem.
The OTO kit I returned since it was missing it's CYA testing tube(dot tube), but it showed
chlorine at least at 5 or more. The DPD test show no color at all. Even last night after I added all that chlorine there was no reading. Shoudn't there have been some reading?

The pH seems to have stabilized at 7.5 and it's staying put for now.

The water is still murky and still has a seafoam greenish look, at least to my eyes.

The filter pressure has bugged up to 15psi from 12.5psi it was staying at before.
I'm not entirely sure that gauge is accurate either due to it's age.


It's quite possible that the chlorine level is quite high and it's bleaching your test so showing clear. Chlorine does lose strength over time so it may have been weaker than expected.

The filter pressure going up is what you would expect as it cleans the water.

I forget if you have vacuum gear. Have you been able to vacuum the pool? Much debris in there?


Henry_R
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My Pool: HOA Community Swimming pool built approx. 1971.
In-Ground, Plaster 34x18 3.5-6' deep, Sta-rite P2R A5D-120L pump, A.O. Smith centurion 1HP (uprated 1.25HP) motor,Hayward S244S filter(new 2011), Rainbow Lifegard Chlorine/Bomine feeder; new replastered June 2010
Location: Houston, Texas USA

Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby Henry_R » Tue 09 Jun, 2009 22:27

If I were to take a sample to a pool store would their equipment be better at determining the amount of chlorine? I realise it's only as good as the person doing the test but I might take the sample to a smaller shop that's been around for a long time. They might have better personnel doing the test and their webpage claims they use the latest testing equipment.

What of the color still looking greenish? It had started to clear before I went to the 10% chlorine vs the 6% regular bleach. Shouldn't the water be clearer if there is a really high amount of chlorine?
Should I not add any chlorine tonight and check the level in the morning maybe?

I know the pressure will increase, but what concerns me is whether it will increase too high before the water is stabilized and well chlorinated and I have to backwash out the chemicals I've added.
I don't fully trust the gauge, as I said since it's from 1991 like the filter. If it were up to me I'll be looking
for a new gauge at some point.

No, no vacuum gear due to storage concerns. WE used to have a pool building, but had
to be torn down. The only place I can store the hose would be inside the area around the pump.
Not a good idea but it might have to do. The pole for the skimmer I've had to store in my patio.
I don't really have room for the hose though.

The brush I bought has a port for the vacuum hose so I'll look into getting the right hose and skimmer attachment. How long a hose should I be looking at for a minimum? What do I do about my not being able to see the bottom? I won't be able to tell if I vacuuming anything other than water without being
able to see.

Is the lack of the main drain being open hindering my effort do you think? There is no valve to redirect flow. We were told by one of the companies that the pipe was clogged. If the drain were working would it be likely that the pool would be cleaner by now?
Money talks!? All it ever says to me is "goodbye!".
chem geek
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Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby chem geek » Tue 09 Jun, 2009 23:55

Henry_R wrote:What of the color still looking greenish? It had started to clear before I went to the 10% chlorine vs the 6% regular bleach. Shouldn't the water be clearer if there is a really high amount of chlorine?
Should I not add any chlorine tonight and check the level in the morning maybe?
:
:
Is the lack of the main drain being open hindering my effort do you think? There is no valve to redirect flow. We were told by one of the companies that the pipe was clogged. If the drain were working would it be likely that the pool would be cleaner by now?

If there is green yet the chlorine level is high, then the green is likely to be from copper. If the green tends to go away as the pH drops when the chlorine levels return to normal (or if you intentionally lower the pH), then this would confirm that it is copper. A metal sequestrant could be added if that is the case. On the other hand, you reported in an earlier post that you avoided anything that had copper in it, so perhaps the green is still algae -- if it's near the bottom of the pool where the chlorine perhaps isn't getting well circulated, then that could be the case.

The lack of a main drain will significantly slow down clearing of a pool if the circulation near the bottom is poor. Pointing the returns diagonally downwards can help improve water flow and brushing can also help. However, this will clear up cloudiness, not a clear green tint.

Richard
Denali
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Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby Denali » Wed 10 Jun, 2009 00:03

Henry_R wrote:If I were to take a sample to a pool store would their equipment be better at determining the amount of chlorine? I realise it's only as good as the person doing the test but I might take the sample to a smaller shop that's been around for a long time. They might have better personnel doing the test and their webpage claims they use the latest testing equipment.
Probably a good idea to get a full testing done. From the pics you posted before I would have expected the pool to continue to clear. The greenish color could indicate copper in the water. If they are able to test for copper that would be helpful.


What of the color still looking greenish? It had started to clear before I went to the 10% chlorine vs the 6% regular bleach. Shouldn't the water be clearer if there is a really high amount of chlorine?
Should I not add any chlorine tonight and check the level in the morning maybe?

I know the pressure will increase, but what concerns me is whether it will increase too high before the water is stabilized and well chlorinated and I have to backwash out the chemicals I've added.
I don't fully trust the gauge, as I said since it's from 1991 like the filter. If it were up to me I'll be looking
for a new gauge at some point.
Backwashing away the chemicals really isn't a concern. You don't lose that much water while backwashing.


No, no vacuum gear due to storage concerns. WE used to have a pool building, but had
to be torn down. The only place I can store the hose would be inside the area around the pump.
Not a good idea but it might have to do. The pole for the skimmer I've had to store in my patio.
I don't really have room for the hose though.

The brush I bought has a port for the vacuum hose so I'll look into getting the right hose and skimmer attachment. How long a hose should I be looking at for a minimum? What do I do about my not being able to see the bottom? I won't be able to tell if I vacuuming anything other than water without being
able to see.
Agreed, I wouldn't vacuum until you can clearly see what's at the bottom. Hose length would be the distance from the skimmer to the furthest point in the pool. Add maybe 5 ft to that length.


Is the lack of the main drain being open hindering my effort do you think? There is no valve to redirect flow. We were told by one of the companies that the pipe was clogged. If the drain were working would it be likely that the pool would be cleaner by now?


Main drain can be helpful but it isn't critical at this point. The foaming and green tinge is a good reason to get the water retested and see if something is out of whack. Seems to have started when the CYA got added and that shouldn't have caused anything to happen.
Henry_R
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My Pool: HOA Community Swimming pool built approx. 1971.
In-Ground, Plaster 34x18 3.5-6' deep, Sta-rite P2R A5D-120L pump, A.O. Smith centurion 1HP (uprated 1.25HP) motor,Hayward S244S filter(new 2011), Rainbow Lifegard Chlorine/Bomine feeder; new replastered June 2010
Location: Houston, Texas USA

Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby Henry_R » Wed 10 Jun, 2009 00:11

Thank you for your reply.

I have no idea where copper would be introduced since I have added nothing, but the pH reducer(dry acid), CYA, and two different strengths of sodium hypochlorite(6% and 10%).

Unless one of the "inert ingredients" in either the bleach or the liquid shock had copper I don't know how it could be in there. The bleach was regular unscented generic walmart bleach that is 6% sodium hypochlorite. The liquid shock is 10% sodium hypochlorite. Both list the remaining ingredients as "inert".

It might be algae, but if it is I'm suprised since I did brush the walls and floor to expose any lingering algae to the chlorine. Not to mention the amount of chlorine I've added.

I am going to take a water sample to a pool store and have it checked. I'm not certain I trust my tests at this point.
Money talks!? All it ever says to me is "goodbye!".
Denali
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Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby Denali » Wed 10 Jun, 2009 00:16

Henry_R wrote:Thank you for your reply.

I have no idea where copper would be introduced since I have added nothing, but the pH reducer(dry acid), CYA, and two different strengths of sodium hypochlorite(6% and 10%).

Unless one of the "inter ingredients" in either the bleach or the liquid shock had copper I don't know how it could be in there. The bleach was regular unscented generic walmart bleach that is 6% sodium hypochlorite. The liquid shock is 10% sodium hypochlorite. Both list the remaining ingredients as "inert".

It might be algae, but if it is I'm suprised since I did brush the walls and floor to expose any lingering algae to the chlorine. Not to mention the amount of chlorine I've added.

I am going to take a water sample to a pool store and have it checked. I'm not certain I trust my tests at this point.


The copper may have already been in the water. You have a tablet feeder on the system which is how the pool was sanitized in the past. The tablets have a low pH and may have reacted with any metal in the system over time.
Henry_R
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Joined: Fri 20 Mar, 2009 21:41
My Pool: HOA Community Swimming pool built approx. 1971.
In-Ground, Plaster 34x18 3.5-6' deep, Sta-rite P2R A5D-120L pump, A.O. Smith centurion 1HP (uprated 1.25HP) motor,Hayward S244S filter(new 2011), Rainbow Lifegard Chlorine/Bomine feeder; new replastered June 2010
Location: Houston, Texas USA

Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby Henry_R » Wed 10 Jun, 2009 00:18

Indeed the foaming began with the CYA and hasn't ceased since. It also went along with
my near zero chlorine reading(s). Perhaps the pH reducer(dry acid) didn't disolve enough before
I added the CYA? It was hours apart though. And now it's been several days and still foamy.
A lot of the foam seems to be staying in the skimmer.

I'm going to take a sample of water and have it tested before I add anything more.
My problem is I ride public transportation(my neighbor will be busy tomorrow). How much
will time degrade the sample. There's about a 90 minute time between home and the pool store.
Money talks!? All it ever says to me is "goodbye!".
Denali
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Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby Denali » Wed 10 Jun, 2009 00:25

Henry_R wrote:Indeed the foaming began with the CYA and hasn't ceased since. It also went along with
my near zero chlorine reading(s). Perhaps the pH reducer(dry acid) didn't disolve enough before
I added the CYA? It was hours apart though. And now it's been several days and still foamy.
A lot of the foam seems to be staying in the skimmer.

I'm going to take a sample of water and have it tested before I add anything more.
My problem is I ride public transportation(my neighbor will be busy tomorrow). How much
will time degrade the sample. There's about a 90 minute time between home and the pool store.


Normally with dry acid you dissolve it in a bucket first and then add to deep end near the return lines. Don't know where there would be a reaction between the two chemicals.

Not sure about the time but 90 minutes should be fine. Perhaps put in a bag to avoid sunlight.

Let us know the results when you get them.
Henry_R
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Posts: 126
Joined: Fri 20 Mar, 2009 21:41
My Pool: HOA Community Swimming pool built approx. 1971.
In-Ground, Plaster 34x18 3.5-6' deep, Sta-rite P2R A5D-120L pump, A.O. Smith centurion 1HP (uprated 1.25HP) motor,Hayward S244S filter(new 2011), Rainbow Lifegard Chlorine/Bomine feeder; new replastered June 2010
Location: Houston, Texas USA

Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby Henry_R » Wed 10 Jun, 2009 00:44

All the piping seems to be PVC both white and grey (CPVC?). There are no metalic pipes anywhere except the cast iron outlet drain. The PVC backwash pipe goes into a cast iron pipe, but it doesn't connect directly to the rest of the system.

We don't even have a water faucet near the pump to refill the pool. All refills are done with a garden hose. And all our main pipes around here are galvanized steel. But none of them get even close to the pool.

What about the leak? Could something be leaching IN through the area where there's a leak?
We still cannot tell exactly where the leak is. The water level hasn't dropped more than 1" in the three days since I've been at this. I raised the water level on Saturday and I put some water in on Sunday after
backwashing but none since and the level hasn't changed. It's one crazy leak.

There is large chunk of plaster missing from one of the side walls. Could something behind plaster the wall be reacting to something else?
Money talks!? All it ever says to me is "goodbye!".
Henry_R
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Posts: 126
Joined: Fri 20 Mar, 2009 21:41
My Pool: HOA Community Swimming pool built approx. 1971.
In-Ground, Plaster 34x18 3.5-6' deep, Sta-rite P2R A5D-120L pump, A.O. Smith centurion 1HP (uprated 1.25HP) motor,Hayward S244S filter(new 2011), Rainbow Lifegard Chlorine/Bomine feeder; new replastered June 2010
Location: Houston, Texas USA

Algae in condominium Homeowner's Association pool

Postby Henry_R » Wed 10 Jun, 2009 00:50

The pH reducer container says to "broadcast" it in the deep end of the pool. It only mentions disolving it in water if the pool is 4' or less. This pool is at least 6 feet deep and I followed the instructions on the label by broadcasting it into the deepest part of the pool.

I'll find something to keep the sample out of light. Is it ok to use the water sample container from the test kit? The one for the CYA test is the only container I have that has a cap. Will any residual CYA reagent in the container skew the test at all if I rinse it well before hand?

I have nothing else to take a water sample with me except perhaps a 16 oz soda bottle.
Money talks!? All it ever says to me is "goodbye!".

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