No Chlorine

Chlorinating, maintaining the right chlorine levels,
chlorine problems. Dichlor, trichlor, cal hypo, bleach,
granules, chlorine pucks and chlorine sticks.
chlorinr deprived

No Chlorine

Postby chlorinr deprived » Fri 04 Sep, 2009 10:07

tried ammonia test, its fine whats eating my chlorine?


chem geek
Pool Industry Leader
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Posts: 2382
Joined: Thu 21 Jun, 2007 21:27
Location: San Rafael, California

No Chlorine

Postby chem geek » Fri 04 Sep, 2009 12:04

The CYA of 77 ppm sounds like a pool store measurement. I would not trust that and would instead get yourself a good test kit to know for sure about your pool water chemistry. You should get either the Taylor K-2006 at a good online price here or the TF100 from tftestkits.net here with the latter kit having 36% more volume of reagents so is less expensive per test.

If the CYA level was correct, then you should have a minimum of at least 3.5 and preferably 4 ppm FC in the pool at all times. You say that if you manually add chlorine that it lasts for some days. That means the problem is with your SWG cell and has nothing to do with anything else eating up chlorine. For sure it's not ammonia since that would consume chlorine almost immediately after adding it.

Check your cell to see if it has scale on it or just clean it in a mild acid solution anyway. When it is operating, see if you can see any bubbles coming out of the returns at night with a pool light on. If your cell is bad, then get it replaced before the warranty runs out. Have you called the manufacturer yet?

Mike, you also posted here at Trouble Free Pool, but in that post you say that you are seeing an overnight chlorine drop though you didn't say by how much. In that case, there may be something still consuming chlorine. It's inconsistent though -- if you add chlorine and it lasts for several days and you aren't using a pool cover, then that's normal depletion from the sun, especially if the overnight loss is < 1 ppm FC.
James007

No Chlorine

Postby James007 » Fri 04 Sep, 2009 21:58

I recommend that everyone disregard the advice given by ALL BLUE POOLS. They do not know what they are talking about. They are clearly incompetent morons.
roscoe1019
Pool Newbie
Pool Newbie
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed 28 Apr, 2010 13:33
My Pool: vinyl inground pool approx. 22,000 to 25,000 gal.

No Chlorine

Postby roscoe1019 » Wed 28 Apr, 2010 13:53

I too have had the same problem since having a new liner installed last year......vinyl liner, 22,000 to 25,000 gallons. Last time around I had them do a phosphate test and it was off the charts after putting in phosphate remover 2x it got down to 100ppm and the chlorine barely registered. As of today my phosphate reading is 400 free chlorine 0, total chlorine 0, cyanuric acid 67, calcium hardness 270, total alkalinity 94 and ph 7.3. I am told to add another 16 oz of phosphate remover and then in 48 hrs add 2 1/2 lbs of shock.......I have repeatedly done this and spent in excess of 200.00 in chemicals in the past month and the chlorine level is virtually non exsistant. Only water added was rain water. I live in E. Tn. Stabilizer is fine and there is no copper or iron Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated
chem geek
Pool Industry Leader
Pool Industry Leader
Posts: 2382
Joined: Thu 21 Jun, 2007 21:27
Location: San Rafael, California

No Chlorine

Postby chem geek » Wed 28 Apr, 2010 16:07

You can always do a bucket test to see how much chlorine it will take before it starts to hold. Take a bucket of pool water and add chlorinating liquid or 6% bleach to it and then stir it up and measure the FC and CC level after a few minutes. You might also test for ammonia before you get started with this (you can test for ammonia using an inexpensive test kit from a fish/pet/aquarium store). 1 teaspoon of 6% bleach in 2 gallons of pool water would be around 40 ppm FC.

Phosphates are not the issue here and you will continue to waste your money if you keep going down that path. You can learn more by reading the Pool School .

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