Pool Pump is really hot to the touch

[WAD]

I have a Hayward Super Pump 1.5hp. The pump is about 3 years old.

I've only owned the house for a year. I don't remember the pump getting super hot last summer. It's got hot but not to where I couldn't touch it. It's gotten so hot that it put a little burn mark on the fiberglass sand filter that sits about 5 or 6 inches away.

All the wiring is good. Should I expect it to start cutting off like I read so much about? Any ideas why it would start getting hot like this?

I had the ceramic thing replaced where it spins and also replaced the other gasket at the front of the motor that goes into the casing. I noticed a little water leaking underneath. Not sure how long that was going on. I'm thinking this may be the cause but not sure.

[Xclusive]

I have a Hayward Super Pump 1.5hp. The pump is about 3 years old.

I've only owned the house for a year. I don't remember the pump getting super hot last summer. It's got hot but not to where I couldn't touch it. It's gotten so hot that it put a little burn mark on the fiberglass sand filter that sits about 5 or 6 inches away.

All the wiring is good. Should I expect it to start cutting off like I read so much about? Any ideas why it would start getting hot like this?

I had the ceramic thing replaced where it spins and also replaced the other gasket at the front of the motor that goes into the casing. I noticed a little water leaking underneath. Not sure how long that was going on. I'm thinking this may be the cause but not sure.

You are correct when you state you should be expecting it to cut off due to thermal overload. Has is done so yet to your knowledge? Also the leak you noticed is possibly due to the seal being ruined because your pump is running dry, hence overheating. Check all the skimmer baskets, make sure no debris is impeding flow. Check the impeller in the pump through the volute. Make sure nothing is clogging it and causing it not to spin. Best case scenario you may have just to free a clog and change the seal.

[WAD]

Joe, thanks so much for the quick response.

I actually removed the pump motor about two weeks ago, bc of the leak, and took it to a local pool store. They replaced the seal and the the little ceramic thing. We did not get any further into the motor than that. This fix stopped the leak but not the heat. To my knowledge it has never stopped running. Right now I have it running for about six hours. I can put my hand on the motor for about 4 seconds before I have to pull away. Other pool owners tell me that is too hot.

About 4 months ago I left the setting on rinse and my timer went off and my pump ran for like 4 hours with the water below my skimmer. It was still pulling water from the bottom drain. I'm guessing this is what messed up the seal and caused the leak. So 4 months it may have been running with that leak. Do you think this may have burned up the pump and I am screwed?

The pump runs fine. I don't think the suction is quite as strong but it might just be my imagination. The jets seem to be pushing out enough water.

One other thing...it is an older pool and the plaster is in bad shape. I've read that this could damage equipment too but not sure how.

Sorry for the long reply...just worried I may have to buy another pump after a stupid mistake.

[mas985]

About 4 months ago I left the setting on rinse and my timer went off and my pump ran for like 4 hours with the water below my skimmer. It was still pulling water from the bottom drain. I'm guessing this is what messed up the seal and caused the leak. So 4 months it may have been running with that leak. Do you think this may have burned up the pump and I am screwed?

Without water running through the impeller, heat will build up on the seals and that is what damaged them but unfortunately this could also have an effect on the bearings as well. If the bearings are damaged, this could be adding more load to the motor which will then draw more power/current which is why it is running hot. Is the motor making any unusual noises? Under normal circumstances, the motor may be quite warm but not really hot and over time this may shorten the motor's life.

[WAD]

The pump is not making any unusual noises. It seems to run fine. It is just really hot. There is no way to fix the bearings? Should I just search for a new motor?

[Xclusive]

The pump is not making any unusual noises. It seems to run fine. It is just really hot. There is no way to fix the bearings? Should I just search for a new motor?

If it is the bearings they certainly can be replaced. You will need a puller to remove the old ones and a bearing press to install the new ones. It is best to take the pump to a motor rebuilder if you want the bearings replaced. However its been my experience that if that motor has been overheating this much the life expectancy of it has definately shortened for sure. It may be a wiser decision just to buy a new motor. Also for the time being check for very small cracks around the housing. That may be cause of a leak too.

[WAD]

What timing.

I just went out to check to see how the pump is running and it won't prime now. It sucks all the water in from the skimmer basket at the pool and just keeps sucking. It never builds up any pressure. The skimmer basket at the pump is just sucking a little bit of water.

It seems like it almost gets there and then fails. And then tries again. Do you think my pump bit the dust?

I have plenty of water in the pool and everything seems to be ok. I'm about to throw up.

[Xclusive]

Sorry to hear this. Try priming it this way, let's see if we can get it going again. Turn off all valves in FRONT of the pump. Stick a garden hose in the pump basket and fill it all the way. Put the top back on the pump, turn the pump on and slowly open the main drain valve until it catches prime. If it catches prime, proceed by opening the skimmer valve(s) and open the main valve all the way.

If it does not catch prime this way or it does and problem persist, you definetely have a suction problem causing your pump to run dry and overheat. Again I would check for any obstruction in the lines and or your pump impeller again for clogs. Let me know how in goes.

Very important, be very careful not to let any water in the motor while you are doing this, make sure when you fill the basket nothing spills over. There is some risk of shock if the motor gets wet.

[WAD]

ok...after a while of trouble shooting I found that the flapper was stuck up at the skimmer basket. Had nothing to do with the pump.

So the pump is still really hot. Put a piece of wood in between the pump motor and the sand filter for now so it doesn't burn a hole through the sand filter.

I guess I will let it run until it dies and just buy a new one.

Anyone know where to get a good deal on a Hayward 1.5hp SuperPump motor?

[Lucy]

The small switch on the motor gets hot.

we change it and did work for 15 min or so and went off again. What coul be the problem.? Please help

[TSH Tech]

When pool pumps are hot to the touch
Pool pump motors, brand new out of the box and plumbed to a pool do run hot to the touch normally. These are not house fan motors that typically run cool, there is 220Volts, over 1000 watts(high speed) of power running through these motors and that equates to heat.

The first little item to fail is the capacitor. The symptoms of a failing or failed capacitor is a humm noise when the motor is started, then the pump turns over. If the capacitor fails, you may get a humm noise, then nothing. This is an inexpensive part to replace.

Now, pumps run hot, and then they run unusually hot. When a motor gets to this point, there's a few tell-tale indicators of why this is happening. The first is old age. The pump is typically more than 4 years old and is about to fail completely. The second is copper fatigue inside the windings. Again, the pump is usually more than 3 years old, and has been mounted on the sunny side of the yard, day in and day out, the electricity that flows through the copper windings heat up and the copper wire. Inside the wire itself goes through a molecular change from the tremendous heat. The copper starts to become hard and brittle and when that happens, it demands more electricity to squeeze the electrical atoms through, making more heat, increasing the problem by spreading out to more of the copper wire. Ultimately, the motor begins to have symptoms of running for a few minutes, getting unusually hot and shutting down(thermal protection). When it gets to this point, your motor has run its course. It's time for a new motor. There is no repairing pool motors with bad windings, the whole thing is bad.

How to protect pool motors for longer life

I've seen just about every scenario of a pool pump mounted and installed. From my experience, I can tell you that pool motors that are inside covered sheds with plenty of ventilation or just simply covered by some sort of roof structure, last out to 6 years and in some instances more! The entire key to long lasting pumps is;
- Keep them covered from the damage of sunlight
- Keep them installed in a cool, shaded, moisture free area
- Keep them away from heat in general

Pumps that fail rather quickly, have chronic problems within 3 years at the most, are always in the direct sunlight, ALL. SUMMER. HOT, SWELTERING. DAY.

[CGPoolman]

TSH Tech,

You are right on the money as always! Anytime I install a new pump or motor, I suggest that the homeowner put some kind of cover over it to extend the life. Very few take my advice but hey - it makes for good repeat business!

Here in Florida, I do more motor replacements from July-September than I do the rest of the year. Most of them are located just like you said - Out in direct sunlight for 8-10 hours a day, pounded by Florida rainstorms, high humidity, etc. Average lifespan is about 5 years.

-CG

[TSH Tech]

(about coverings) Exactly, all we can do is advise

[free info]

When a pump is not wired correct it can still run but will over heat I would check the side of the motor look at the diagram & see where everything goes. Its not the 2 power & ground wire your looking at its the brown & white wire your looking to see where they go as I have seen many homeowners not switch them to their proper place and they get a very hot motor that turns on & off but over heats bad. The only other thing that no one talked about is the pump cavitating meaning the pump basket only fills up have way? This can also make the motor hot and in most cases the pump is to big for the pool system.

[mauricem]

A capacitor rating too small will also cause a pump to run hot.

The 40uf cap on our 2hp pump failed and to test we fitted the 25uf one off a 1hp pump. The pump ran fine and my understanding as confirmed by the pump manufacturer was that it was just a start cap and if it spun up the pump ok then its job was done.

As I found out from a motor rewind company this is wrong, these are start/run capacitors and play a critical factor at all phases of running. The small cap meant the motor would run for maybe an hour max before cutting out due to over heat.

We fitted the correct 40uf cap and no more overheating, hope it hasnt done any damage.