yellow algea on a new liner

Algae problems in swimming pool water.
Green (cloudy) water or slimy pool walls.
Black algae. Mustard algae. Pink or white pool mold.

yellow algea on a new liner

Postby bernie51 » Tue 29 Jun, 2010 13:35

Live in VA always had yellow algae problems until we bought and ionizer and has been great for 6 years now. We replaced the liner this year filled up with city water hooked everything up and in about 3-4 days the sides of the pool (16X32 inground) have gotten covered with something yellow. I guess algae have shocked to the limit bleached to the limit algesided to the limit We were able to use mr clean sponges in the shallow end and they definatly had some yellow on them after wiping we have brushed scrubbed and think its gone but its not! its only on the sides HELP sue


yellow algea on a new liner

Postby Blazing » Sat 28 Aug, 2010 17:09

As a poolman in Phoenix Arizona for over 25 years, I can advise you as to what to do to keep your pool clear of algae, but all of the information might not pertain to your situation. I have created a web site to help people solve their pool problems based on my experience. You can find it at solvemypool

I would start at teh section where it discusses Algae on Pool Surfaces, then hit the section on water chemistry. Keep in mind that we are talking about one of the hardest areas in the country to maintain pools as the temperatures are the highest, and we get high winds, dust, debris, ... and all the other problems faces in other areas of the country, EXCEPT Freezing.

Some differences between what you are told, and what you will find on the site are to keep your chlorine stabilizer at 100 ppm, get an adjustable floating chlorinator and adjust the slats so that 1/2 the weight of a new tab dissolves in a 1 week period, add enough tabs to keep the free chlorine at 3.0, and keep the pH at 7.6, or even better, at 7.8. Also find a store that carries alum. Buy it online if you need to. Sand filters only filter down to 30 Microns, and most algae found in pools is in the 6-14 micron range. Alum clumps it into larger particles that allow sand filters to pull it out f the water, and causes it to settle out on the floor. If you can suck the water into the filter from the main drain / center of the pool. You can hook up a vacuum and flip it over in the center if you have to. return the water to the surface of the pool creating a circular pattern with the returned water breaking about 3' further along the edge from the the actual return position, and as close to the wall as is possible.

I prefer granular trichlor to any other chlorine booster (Even better than shock) see the section on green - cloudy water on the web site, and the section on water chemistry.
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yellow algea on a new liner

Postby chem geek » Sat 28 Aug, 2010 22:50

See this post I wrote in response to another one you wrote in a different thread for more info. You need to maintain a higher FC level with the higher 100 ppm CYA level you propose. 3 ppm FC will not be enough for every pool -- there are hundreds upon hundreds of users with 100+ ppm CYA who get algae in their pools even at 3 ppm FC every year reported at Trouble Free Pool. They can keep their pools algae-free at 100 ppm CYA by targeting 7-8 ppm FC or if they are luckier 5 ppm FC or if they do something to supplement such as weekly shocking then perhaps a little lower in pools not rich in algae nutrients.

Remember that I'm talking about preventing algae in pools that even have 3000+ ppb phosphates and lots of nitrates. Your solution is a drain/refill every couple of years, but many people have pools that don't need such water dilution so frequently -- they use cartridge filters, have pool covers to minimize evaporation/refill, have fill water that isn't high in CH and TA, etc.

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