green cloudy pool water... HELP

Algae problems in swimming pool water.
Green (cloudy) water or slimy pool walls.
Black algae. Mustard algae. Pink or white pool mold.
Connie346

green cloudy pool water... HELP

Postby Connie346 » Wed 04 Aug, 2010 03:16

Can anyone please help.....problem started 2 weeks ago with slightly cloudy water, pool was shocked, however we had our lawn fertilized the same day. Pool turned a cloudy green color over the next 24-48 hrs. In the last 2 weeks we have used 4# stabilized chlorinating granules, (2) 32 oz algaecide, (2) 32 oz phosphate remover, ph minus, clarifier, and lots of liquid chlorine with filter running 24/7, new filter sand too. Currently our tot chlor and free chlor are both 7.5, CYA 93, pH, 7.7, tot alk 99. After spending hundreds, there is NO improvement. Water is still cloudy green, we can only see the second step, haven't seen the bottom in weeks. We have bottom drain. No slime on walls or steps or visible floating algae, in fact water samples I have taken in to the pool store look clear. We are ready to drain or cover pool...any suggestions before doing so...please help, I am going crazy!!!

30' above ground, 200# sand filter, 2hp hayward pump


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green cloudy pool water... HELP

Postby Bjorn » Wed 04 Aug, 2010 15:34

I have had the same problem with my pool 14 days ago. Maybe I had too much cyanor in my pool water? I got some advice about trying to shock chlor heavily and it actually helped .....! I added in the ratio 20 liters of water to 1 g. chlorine granules and had the filter running 24 / 7. After three days and two backwash of the sand filter the water was crystal clear. I could not of course use the pool while ... Maybe it's worth a try ..? :?:
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green cloudy pool water... HELP

Postby lbridges » Wed 04 Aug, 2010 16:35

CYA at 93 is way too high and is a direct result of using stabilized chlorine (either trichlor or dichlor).

Shock level for a CYA of 93 is an FC reading of 35. You will have to hold it there until a measurement in the evening and one the next morning shows a drop of less than 0.5.
ckleist

green cloudy pool water... HELP

Postby ckleist » Wed 04 Aug, 2010 20:41

How can I be sure to get a FC reading of 35? I check my own levels at home with the yellow and red phenyl drops. The pool store I use can only read to 10. I am no longer going there since they instructed me to use 4# dichlor to increase my FC - my CYA level at the time was 104 then increased to 141. I think that just cause me more trouble. With 24,000 gal of pool water, how many gallons of chlorine do you recommend? I plan to shock in the am, just don't know how much to use.
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green cloudy pool water... HELP

Postby lbridges » Thu 05 Aug, 2010 16:55

Go to the Pool Calculator site and use their system to calculate values. http://www.thepoolcalculator.com/

And you are right about them just driving your CYA value up again.

To hit 35 ppm FC starting with a figure like 4ppm, you would have to add 12 gallons of bleach, which would then screw with pH, and that would need adjusting.

I don't know about your local water costs/rationing, but it might be in your best interest money wise to get CYA down to 30-50ppm range.
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green cloudy pool water... HELP

Postby floridapooltech » Thu 05 Aug, 2010 22:55

lbridges wrote:CYA at 93 is way too high and is a direct result of using stabilized chlorine (either trichlor or dichlor).

Shock level for a CYA of 93 is an FC reading of 35. You will have to hold it there until a measurement in the evening and one the next morning shows a drop of less than 0.5.



A CYA reading of 93 is not "too high". The "ideal" range for CYA is 30-50ppm, however, it is acceptable to contain levels from 30-100ppm.

While shocking your pool will lower your CYA levels, this may not be your problem. You are stating the issue seems to be worse after fertilizing...Are they spraying fertilizer into your pool? If so, you need to get them to stop as high nitrate levels in your pool will cause uncontrollable algal outbreaks (algae is a plant that loves fertilizing too). You need to take your water sample into the local pool store and ask for a nitrate and phosphate test at this point. If phosphates are the problem, it is recommended to use phosphate remover to correct the issue. If the problem is nitrates, unfortunately the only way to correct this would be to drain "X" amount of gallons, and replace with fresh. Nitrates are a costly problem to have, so I would strongly recommend getting your lawn company to stop over-spraying into your pool (maybe be a little more careful from now on).
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Location: Space Coast, Florida

green cloudy pool water... HELP

Postby lbridges » Fri 06 Aug, 2010 17:13

Shocking a pool will not lower CYA levels.

Finding a pool test for nitrates might be difficult as there is no product to fix, so not much of a call to test (stated from a pool store perspective - don't test if you can't sell a "fix" - they are businesses, not charities).

Phosphates seldom are a problem until they reach a very high level. Look for posts by chem geek if you want a researched chemical answer.

We all have opinions, I find A CYA value of 93 way high - it is not isn't insurmountable - but it's 2 to 3 times the recommended value. As a result it will cost more to keep the chlorine level high enough to prevent algae outbreaks. As I tried to say before, only you can decide about cost for new water vice costs for chlorine.
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green cloudy pool water... HELP

Postby floridapooltech » Fri 06 Aug, 2010 17:46

lbridges wrote:Shocking a pool will not lower CYA levels.

Finding a pool test for nitrates might be difficult as there is no product to fix, so not much of a call to test (stated from a pool store perspective - don't test if you can't sell a "fix" - they are businesses, not charities).

Phosphates seldom are a problem until they reach a very high level. Look for posts by chem geek if you want a researched chemical answer.

We all have opinions, I find A CYA value of 93 way high - it is not isn't insurmountable - but it's 2 to 3 times the recommended value. As a result it will cost more to keep the chlorine level high enough to prevent algae outbreaks. As I tried to say before, only you can decide about cost for new water vice costs for chlorine.



first off. If his/her CYA levels WERE too high, shocking to breakpoint would fix the problem as the reason they got to chlorine lock is from exclusive use of trichlor chlorination. second, as stated, a CYA of 93 is within acceptable levels and not the problem with the algae.

Also, a nitrate test kit is not hard to come by. Most if not all pool stores have the capability to test for such. As for a "fix", there is none, the only way to solve a nitrate problem is to dilute the water (the solution to pollution is dilution). Since this is "city" or well water, it would not be a "business" decision as you have stated. Phosphates are a real problem as it is algae "food". A smart pool service company would always keep nitrate and phosphates in check as well as the pH since this drives up the need for more costly chemicals and attention.
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Connie346

green cloudy pool water... HELP

Postby Connie346 » Fri 06 Aug, 2010 17:50

11 gal of chlorine last night + 2 more today and still no improvement. OTO shows dark burnt orange, pool still as green as ever. 2# pH minus added as well. Algae appears to be floating (not visible in clumps), but not afixed to sides. We drained 6-8" of water and wanted to see some improvement before adding replacement water. Ordered a Taylor test kit but don't expect it until Mon/Tues. No local pool store can test FC >10. We are at a loss. We don't want to harm the lawn by dumping more water with soo much chlorine. Is more chlorine in order??? We did add 64oz of phosphate remover to pool earlier in the week. Nothing seems to be helping, we thought we would be able to see a color change indicating that the chlorine to doing something, but still the same green......any help/advice would be appreciated. Thank you.
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green cloudy pool water... HELP

Postby floridapooltech » Fri 06 Aug, 2010 18:33

Connie346 wrote:11 gal of chlorine last night + 2 more today and still no improvement. OTO shows dark burnt orange, pool still as green as ever. 2# pH minus added as well. Algae appears to be floating (not visible in clumps), but not afixed to sides. We drained 6-8" of water and wanted to see some improvement before adding replacement water. Ordered a Taylor test kit but don't expect it until Mon/Tues. No local pool store can test FC >10. We are at a loss. We don't want to harm the lawn by dumping more water with soo much chlorine. Is more chlorine in order??? We did add 64oz of phosphate remover to pool earlier in the week. Nothing seems to be helping, we thought we would be able to see a color change indicating that the chlorine to doing something, but still the same green......any help/advice would be appreciated. Thank you.



Still strongly believe nitrates is your issue if 13 gallons of chlorine and a pH value in range. The only way to solve this is to drain a good amount of the water and replace with fresh. Dumping water on the grass high in chlorine will most likely burn the grass. Just be careful not to get it into the storm drains as this can lead to costly fines from the city/county. Before dumping any more chlorine rich water onto the grass, you may want to wait a few days until the free chlorine levels drop. If your superchlorination attempt does not fix the issue, this is most likely your issue. Also, 64oz. of phosphate remover sounds a bit much. It isn't Natural Chemistry PhosFree you are using, is it? That particular blend is not nearly as effective as PROtech or SeaKlear is (4 oz. of either will effectively treat 10,000 gallons).
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