Testing my AutoClear

Guest · Postby **Guest** » Wed 18 Aug, 2010 10:18

Where or how can I test my AutoClear ACL=1?

None of my local pool stores can? It is 6 years old.
Every year I soak cell per instructions and never have had any issues.

This year is does not work.
Both the power and low salt light is always on. It does not produce any chlorine.

Postby **floridapooltech** » Wed 18 Aug, 2010 14:17

Pool User wrote:Where or how can I test my AutoClear ACL=1?

None of my local pool stores can? It is 6 years old.
Every year I soak cell per instructions and never have had any issues.

This year is does not work.
Both the power and low salt light is always on. It does not produce any chlorine.

When was the last time you have replaced the cell? They are good for 10,000 hours which is about 4-5 years.

Guest · Postby **Guest** » Wed 18 Aug, 2010 21:19

everything is al orginal. How do you test it??

Postby **floridapooltech** » Wed 18 Aug, 2010 23:14

Pool User wrote:everything is al orginal. How do you test it??

I am not 100% sure since I have never tested one myself. I can ask one of our technician's Thursday morning and get back with you. I believe you use an ohm meter to see if the current is broken on any of the blades. If you have never replaced the cell it may be safe to say the useful life has been exceeded. I will give you an answer for sure though.

Postby **floridapooltech** » Thu 19 Aug, 2010 12:39

swimnsaveusa wrote:
Pool User wrote:everything is al orginal. How do you test it??

There apparently is no actual way to test the autoclear salt cell. Have you checked the flow sensor to see if it is working properly? The best thing to do is call POLARIS and see what they have to say about it.

cannonball · Postby **cannonball** » Sat 28 Aug, 2010 12:21

I am having the same problem this summer with the low salt light (autoclear ACL-14). Might be time for new system since mine is from 2004. They problem might be internal to the control panel and may be able to be fixed if you have some electrical diagrams of the panel. Don't bother calling Zodiac (they own Polaris). They will tell you that they don't even have the literature or technical information on the older systems. I tried asking some technical questions and could not get any answers. Also my flow switch failed - again. I have 2 and they both have failed. I tested the switch (with the help of an electrician) and found out that the small jack at the end of the flow switch was bad. I called Zodiac and they were no help. I called the company that makes the flow switch (see name tag on your flow switch) and bought 10 of them at $1 each. Overnight shipping was required for my circumstance which is why I bought 10. I soldered the jacks on to the 2 flow switches and my flow switch problem was solved. Now I have to get the low salt light to go out.

Postby **floridapooltech** » Sat 28 Aug, 2010 12:46

cannonball wrote:I am having the same problem this summer with the low salt light (autoclear ACL-14). Might be time for new system since mine is from 2004. They problem might be internal to the control panel and may be able to be fixed if you have some electrical diagrams of the panel. Don't bother calling Zodiac (they own Polaris). They will tell you that they don't even have the literature or technical information on the older systems. I tried asking some technical questions and could not get any answers. Also my flow switch failed - again. I have 2 and they both have failed. I tested the switch (with the help of an electrician) and found out that the small jack at the end of the flow switch was bad. I called Zodiac and they were no help. I called the company that makes the flow switch (see name tag on your flow switch) and bought 10 of them at $1 each. Overnight shipping was required for my circumstance which is why I bought 10. I soldered the jacks on to the 2 flow switches and my flow switch problem was solved. Now I have to get the low salt light to go out.

Have you thought about switching to a Hayward Goldline Aqua Rite salt system? They have been around for over 10 years and are one of the most reliable systems on the market?

Markusa · Postby **Markusa** » Wed 01 Sep, 2010 17:27

Cannonball,
I'm having a similar problem and no support from Polaris or the contractor that put the pool in 3 1/2 years ago. I'll try my flow switch tonight and see if that helps. I am anxious to find out if you have any luck testing yours. I'll check back in with you on this.

marycoleman · Postby **marycoleman** » Sun 22 May, 2011 23:41

Is the cell light supposed to be on all the time. The power light is on (green) and cell light (green) goes on and off. I can find no info about this anywhere. Where did you buy the flow switch? Wonder if that is my problem?
Also, where can I find info about the meaning of the TEST numbers?

Cannonball · Postby **Cannonball** » Tue 14 Jun, 2011 08:39

You can search online for the manual which will tell you what the codes mean (I pasted the info below for the codes). I don't remember which web site I used, but I did find the manual. The cell will be on (green lite on) based on the number of hours you set the cell to be on. You can use the UP or DOWN arrows on the display to set the time. The cell is turned on/off by the flow switch when the pump starts. (When the pump is turned on and if there is sufficient flow through the cell, the flow switch will shut, which will allow the cell to be turned on. The cell is on for: 1) the number of hours you set, or 2) until the pump turns off and the flow switch opens causing the cell to be deenergized.) When you test the system, you should have a 90 at the end. This means you have sufficient flow and enough salt. If you have low flow (92), consider taking your cell out and clean the cell. It might be clogged with grass. If you suspect your flow switch is bad, someone with electrical troubleshooting knowledge can determine if you flow switch if functioning properly.
{I am not an expert in this subject, but a homeowner who has learned a lot!}
Good luck.

[In normal operation, the controller runs on a 24-hour
timer. Power is supplied to the cell for the preset run
time, then disabled for the remainder of the 24-hour
period. Press the Up or Down button once to
display the current run time and again to adjust it.
The Low Salt light will flash if a low salt condition is
detected. Test the pool water for the salt concentration
and adjust as necessary. If the light stays lit, a problem
condition exists. Refer to the Troubleshooting section.

Press the Test button to review the unit’s current
operational readings. The screen will flash an LED test
(88), then display the amperage (with decimal point), the
voltage (no decimal) and the operational status code.
After correcting the condition, reset the light by pressing
the Test button.

Status Codes Definition
90 System OK
91 Low salt, cell needs cleaning or cell wire problem*
92 Insufficient flow, flow switch problem or pump microphone problem*
* See Troubleshooting section for fault resolution procedures.

Boosting Chlorine Production
If pool traffic is heavy or other demands require increased chlorine production, press the
Up and Down simultaneously to activate a continuous 24-hour run cycle. The pool
pump timer must be adjusted to run for 24 hours as well. At the end of the cycle, the
normal run time cycle will resume. To terminate the boost cycle, press the On/Off key.

enough · Postby **enough** » Fri 08 Jun, 2012 17:45

I believe I have all the information I need after reading everything people have tried to get this obvously obsolete unit to work properly. I am seriously impressed and depressed as I ran this gammit before I found this sight. I would have said uncle many hours of painful research and study long ago.

I wil never go back to a chlorine tablets and all the chemicals, so salt is my choice. My only remaining question is what system is the best bang for the buck.