Chlorine Tabs not dissolving

[jazmynOhio]

Hi All. I did a quick scan of topics, and a search, and didn't find anything similar so..

I used a new pool service company this season due to unprofessional behavior from my previous one. They do things a LOT differently from my previous experiences. I had to replace my chlorine feeder at open, and FYI I have chronic problems with mustard algae and green algae, so I have to keep chlorine levels pretty high - we are in a rural area, surrounded by cropland, and I suspect I have phosphates exposure.

Short version - is it possible for a chlorine feeder to be working, but the pucks do not dissolve at a regular rate?

In the past, our chlorine feeder (3" pucks) would run through a full load within 10 days to 2 weeks. At the beginning of the season, and after an algae bloom, we keep the feeder at 3/4 to 1, simply because that's the only way to get ahead of the algae. For maintenance, I keep it between 1/4 and 1/2, and as long as I don't let the pucks run out, and I keep shocking weekly, i don't have algae issues.

However, since installing this new feeder, and doing the pool open, the pucks in the new feeder are not dissolving. YI, the pool is still cloudy, won't hold chlorine, so i haven't side-scrubbed yet. frustrating as all get out. I contacted the servicer, and they came back out. They say that the feeder IS working, but there is too much particulate in the pool, so it's not releasing into the water. He sold us a super flocc to get the particulate the settle out, and says we need to turn the pool filter off, let the particulate settle out, and then vacuum to waste. (FYI, I am primary caregiver for the pool, and i wasn't available when they guy came today. my husband talked to them)

gah. i didn't want this to be so long, but...here....
when we open, we usually have significant algae, no matter how much we shock in the fall. We get everything hooked up, but do NOT turn on the pump yet. We adjust the pool chemistry, stir with a side scrub brush to distribute chemicals, and super shock. This can take the equivalent of up to 25 gallons of shock, depending on what concentration I can get my hands on. As soon as chlorine levels will maintain for an overnight without dissipating, (and no more foam on the surface) we superchlorinate and side-scrub every single surface, let sit another 12 hours. If the water is then clear, and chlorine is holding, THEN turn on the filter (with chlorine feeder). all of the dead algae (cloudiness) is cleaned out or settles to the bottom, and we vacuum it out...the worst of it to waste, but i try to minimize that because my well water has iron algae and is very alkaline, so adjusting it is expensive and frustrating.

Instead, this service company assembled, replaced the chlorine feeder, adjusted chemistry, super shocked, turned feeder on 1/2, charged the DE filter, and turned it all on. I was stunned, and questioned, said won't i have to disassemble the filter and clean the fingers? he said, well, yes. but it will clean the pool in the mean time.

So...opinions? was my OLD way wrong, or is this guy full of it?

Since I can't find where to edit my signataure, here's my pool info: 18' x 36' in-ground chlorine filter, 28,500 gallons, 8' deep end, ,3' shallow end. Haywood DE filter, chlorine feeder, and natural gas heater.

Jaz

[Denniswiseman]

Let's have your numbers (CYA is very important) you may need to use a pool store
FC:
TC:
pH:
TA:
CH:
CYA:

Test strips are commonly called guess strips
You really need to get yourself a decent FAS/DPD test kit (Taylor K2006c or TF Testkits TF100 in the states) to get accurate results as maintaining an appropiate shock level means testing quite often during the day

First of all stop using the chlorine feeder
I suspect that your CYA is so high
Excessive CYA renders your chlorine ineffective and you have to use more to get the same sanitation
For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by at least 7 ppm
To reduce your CYA you have to do a partial drain and refill
Continuous use of Trichlor/Dichlor will raise your CYA which means you have to raise your chlorine level as well

Use these common products to balance your pool
Liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite or plain bleach)
Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) to lower pH and TA
Bicarbonate of soda to raise TA
Aeration will raise pH only
Soda ash will raise pH and TA


You will need to Slam (Shock Level and Maintain) with relation to Chlorine / CYA Chart and Recommended Pool Levels
Pool Maths

[jazmynOhio]

FC:0.7
TC: 1.6
pH:7.2
TA: 83
CH:96
CYA:83
all of which is pretty close to what i read with test strips. (except it doesn't measure CH or total chlorine)

and, as i said, phosphate? >4000. and pretty much no hope of affordably controlling it in my environment.
I just got done adjusting the CYA level, so I was actually confident it was fine.

I've been trying to bring the pH up, and i'll return to that effort, as well as the rest of the minor asjustments, after i get the chlorine level to stay.

I took a sample to a pools store, and they confirmed what I originally thought - the chlorine feeder is not working properly, and we suspect it is installed backwards.

So....i was right, the new pool contractor was wrong. i need to superchlorinate with 7 lb of burnout 73 (or the stronger granular i have...i'll probably uses that up first), side scrub, clean the filter, reassemble, once it holds a chlorine reading for 12 hours, i'll turn the filter on and vacuum to waste.

[Denniswiseman]

A CYA of 83 is to high and need t be brought down to about 40
A CYA of 80 requires a minimum of 6 and a target of 9-11 which you will struggle to get with Trichlor / Dichlor and keep down

[jazmynOhio]

I've always been told it should be around 80, perhaps because the pool is in 100% direct sunlight? If we keep it lower than 70, we lose chlorine much faster. with our high phosphates and chronic algae problems, frankly i'm lucky to get CYA up to 80. it rarely is.

But I understand your point about chlorine concentration in relation to CYA. I will consult with my local pool store. i'm finding the inconsistencies in advice about pool care to be infuriating. I'm trying to do my best, do my due diligence so that i don't waste time and money and wear and tear on my equipment, and i can't get consistent advice.

thank you,

jaz

[Denniswiseman]

Look at the link for Chlorine / CYA Chart

[Denniswiseman]

Pool stores are in the business of selling, we aren't