Sodium hypochlorite kg to liter

[Okoth]

I've just bought 10 kg of sodium hypochlorite 12%. I want to use the Pool Calculator app to calculate how much I need to use, but the app is in liters.

If I want to convert 1 kg of sodium hypochlorite 12% to ml, how many ml are there in a kilogram?

I don't know if I am right, but I think it's about 830 ml per kilo.

Can anyone confirm this?

Thanks

[Denniswiseman]

Sodium Hypochlorite is a liquid and as such would be 10 litres for 10 kg
If it's a powder then it's Trichlor, Dichlor or Cal-hypo which can be substitued in the app

[Okoth]

Sodium Hypochlorite is a liquid and as such would be 10 litres for 10 kg
If it's a powder then it's Trichlor, Dichlor or Cal-hypo which can be substitued in the app

Sorry Dennis but I'm quite sure this is wrong. You can not say that because it's a liquid 1kg = 1L. For example a liter of mercury is 13.53 kg. The density is different.

I think I will manage tonight, shocking the pool. I will just estimate it. Little bit more with shocking doesn't matter.

I've yellow algae in the pool. Two days ago, I used polyquad but that didn't work because I followed someone's advice to add polyquad to the water, wait an hour and then shock the pool. So, I'm now going my own way and follow advice from forums like these.

My plan is to shock the pool within 2 hours (almost evening in Indonesia) with 5 liter Sodium Hypochlorite. At the moment the pool chemistry is about this:

CL: 10 (estimate, shocked 2 days ago with 900 gr trichlor)
pH: 7.0
TA: ?
CH: ?
CYA: 40 (estimate, new water on 10/10/2021, have only been using trichlor)
Water temp: 82 F

Hopefully this is enough to kill the yellow algae that I have never gotten rid off for the past 10 months.

Any input is appreciated

[Okoth]

I just found this converter. Looks like it's around 827 L/kg.

https://www.aqua-calc.com/calculate/volume-to-weight

[Denniswiseman]

Seeing as Sodium Hypochlorite is mainly salt water the 1 kg to 1 litre is close enough, unlike mercury which is a metal, however just measure out the Sodium Hypochlorite in litres or part thereof

Excessive CYA renders your chlorine ineffective and you have to use more to get the same sanitation
For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by at least 7 ppm
To reduce your CYA you have to do a partial drain and refill
Continuous use of Trichlor/Dichlor will raise your CYA which means you have to raise your chlorine level as well

You probably need to Slam (Shock Level and Maintain) with relation to Chlorine / CYA Chart and Recommended Pool Levels

Estimates with your numbers are widely inaccurate, with a CYA level of 40 you need a slam level of 16 ppm free chlorine

[Okoth]

Sorry Dennis, now I'm confused. I read the Chlorine CYA chart and the refined chart mentioned on that page and based on that I concluded that I need a higher slam level than 16 ppm. Maybe I misunderstood it.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/chlorine-cya-chart.2177/

NOTE: A reasonable approximation to the above table is the following:
.... "Min FC" is 7.5% of the CYA level
.... "Target FC" is 11.5% of the CYA level
.... "Yel/Mstrd Min" is 15% of the CYA level
.... "Shock FC" is 40% of the CYA level
.... "Yel/MstrdShock" is 60% of the CYA level.

I thought that since I'm having yellow algae I need the yellow shock, which is 60% of the CYA level according to Chem Geek's refined chart.

[Denniswiseman]

Chem Geek is a really knowledgable chap and I wouldn't disagree with him at all as he has helped me in the past
I hadn't looked at the origonal and only the standard chart for a slam at 40 CYA
I agree that for mustard algae you need about 24
But guessing and being able to maintain the correct level is difficult without a FAS/DPD test kit as different CYA levels will require different FC levels and most tests don't do high levels of FC
This is why it's better to use liquid chlorine and not Trichlor / Dichlor which adds CYA constantly

[Teapot1]

Pool Calculator app is in liters.

If I want to convert 1 kg of sodium hypochlorite 12% to ml, how many ml are there in a kilogram.

Thanks

Why not just measure a litre?
This isnt a chemistry exam.

Ahh the seldom seen mustard algae, are you sure it is?

[Okoth]

Chem Geek is a really knowledgable chap and I wouldn't disagree with him at all as he has helped me in the past
I hadn't looked at the origonal and only the standard chart for a slam at 40 CYA
I agree that for mustard algae you need about 24
But guessing and being able to maintain the correct level is difficult without a FAS/DPD test kit as different CYA levels will require different FC levels and most tests don't do high levels of FC

This is why it's better to use liquid chlorine and not Trichlor / Dichlor which adds CYA constantly

Yes, I fully agree Dennis. The thing is, I can't buy a testing set over here and I can't import it because of restrictions. It sucks but that's how it is. So I can only measure the pH and CL with the simple tablets system and look at the color.

I replaced the pool water on 10/10/2021 and counted the trichlor I used and concluded that the CYA must be around 40 ppm. I decided to use sodium hypochlorite from then on. Since I still cannot measure the CYA and we are approaching the rain season it's going to hard to know how much CYA there will be in the pool after some months because we are going to get a lot of rain and water will be drained. I'm planning to start using trichlor again after I see that the chlorine level is gone fast after adding it. Not much more I can do. Great huh?

I hope I can go abroad soon a buy a proper testing set. That will be the best day of my life! It will get rid of lots of stress and gives me my free time back.

[Okoth]

Why not just measure a litre?

Yes, I also figured that, though I like math tests

So I went out to buy a measuring jug. Went to 6 shops and couldn't find it. Then I got the brilliant idea to get a cup, looked up how many milliliters there are in a cup and measured out 5 liters, put a mark on the bucket, tossed out the water and added the liquid chlorine Welcome to the bush! Life is different here.

Ahh the seldom seen mustard algae, are you sure it is?

No, I'm not sure Teapot1, and it probably isn't, but I have tried everything to get rid of the algae. In the beginning just stays at the bottom of the pool at places where the current is less (I guess), so not equally spread over the pool floor. It's never on the walls. When I wave my hand above it, it goes up/away. It's very thin, and it looks like the filter doesn't catch it. When I raise the chlorine level or shock it, I get double the amount back. I have tried shocking the pool (did it 3x since 10/10/2021. First time with fresh water, second time when I saw small spots of algae, third time when there was a lot of algae and the water became green) and algaecide but no success until now. It started the same a with the first batch of water. One day there was this very sticky, black thin layer at the bottom of the pool. When you brush it like you normally do, it doesn't go away. You have to brush it a couple of times and after a week it's gone again. Then about a week later, the yellow algae comes and can't get rid of it.

Another option I was thinking of is that the yellow stuff could be from leaves. Maybe it released color or whatever into the water. But that would go away after vacuuming to waste. And it came back twice as much after shocking the pool. It's a real struggle.

The pool maker's solution is to lower the pH to 6.5 and shock. Didn't work, so they said the lower it to 5.5 and shock. Didn't work. Then to lower the pH to 4.5 and shock. That kind of worked, and they advised to keep the 4.5 pH there for 2 weeks. In the end, the algae wasn't there. After 2 weeks, I raised the pH and 2 weeks later the algae came back again. Then I had to lower the pH to 4.5 again and start all over again. With the disadvantages of not being able to swim and damaging the liner and/or the pump... Good thing is that they sell liner and pumps so that shouldn't be a problem.

One thing that helped was using copper sulfate. Within no time, the pool was clear. Disadvantage was that the pool got stains. That's why I cleaned the liner and replaced the water. The pool is about 13.500 gallons and I only used 60 gram. I think the chlorine level was 1.5, probably too high.

For me there are two options left: I want to use polyquad 60 after the chlorine level has come down to 3 to kill the algae if it's still there. And if that doesn't work, I want to replace the water again and use copper sulfate from the start (maybe starting with 5-10 grams) and keep the chlorine level between 0.5 - 1 ppm. I really don't like the latter, but I've tried to get rid of the algae for almost a year and I am still trying. The frustrating thing is that copper sulfate works, but it might give stains. I rather not use it. I don't have the chemicals and options you guys have, so the solution might need to be different. I still like to hear your ideas because there might be chemicals I have never heard of but can find here.

So the morning after shocking, the pool still looks green, but it's not evenly green. The deeper part is darker because there are more algae there (not because it's deeper ) so the last super shock might work. Some days of vacuuming and brushing coming up! I hope the filter bag will catch the algae...

Since we're chatting anyway, I can get poly aluminium chloride (PAC) here in powder form that I could to use as a floc. Four questions:

1. How do you use it and how much?
2. Could it stain or damage the liner?
3. Could PAC be harmful to the pool in any way?

Thank you for all your help, guys. I learn a lot from you!

[Okoth]

Just tested the chlorine. Is this really 20+ ppm water? I wonder if they sold me 12% sodium hypochlorite...

https://ibb.co/wh5p6n1

I don't know if this is a good reference?

https://ibb.co/vvN2hSf

[Okoth]

Some progress... If it's progress... I guess I need to give it a week and vacuum and brush the pool twice a day...

https://ibb.co/mSJfzm9

[Denniswiseman]

None of those links worked

[Teapot1]

The chlorine may have been 12% when they made it but it degrades over time and in hot places quicker. If you have added the correct dose and the result on your OTO test is still in the normal yellow range and not closer to orange as your OTO graphic, this shows that isnt fresh chlorine and probably nearer to 6% now. Any date on the container of when it was manufactured? With OTO it doesn't bleach out at high chlorine levels but you are measuring total chlorine not free chlorine so may be misleading.
Forget poly quats, they don't work unless the solution is really strong, its just an industry lie! The chlorine is trying to burn out the poly quats so youll end up adding more chlorine because it gets used up quicker
Then you buy more algaecide (poly quats) because its not working and so on until.... Why don't pool shops sell a test for polyquat? They are made but no pool shop selling algaecide has ever stocked them, because they dont want you to know, it would spoil their little game and hurt sales.

When was the last time the filter was cleaned? The largest surface area in contact with the water is the filter media, whats in your water is in your filter. Domestic filters are terrible at backwashing so over time they become bio fouled and what seems an impossible to cure pool problem is often down to the filter.
So two things, you need to add more chlorine but also service your filter and possibly replace the media ir certainly clean it.
Copper suphate is risky with staining and without an accurate test kit. Staining usually occurs when the pH gets to 8.1 and above as the copper drops out of suspension at that level which can happen when shocking a pool.
Over to you for the comments.

[Teapot1]

None of those links worked

I could open them.