Teapot1 wrote:Denniswiseman wrote:None of those links worked
I could open them.
That's strange they work now
Teapot1 wrote:Denniswiseman wrote:None of those links worked
I could open them.
Teapot1 wrote: Any date on the container of when it was manufactured?
Teapot1 wrote:When was the last time the filter was cleaned?
Teapot1 wrote:Staining usually occurs when the pH gets to 8.1 and above
Okoth wrote:Teapot1 wrote:When was the last time the filter was cleaned?
I'm using these filter bags
https://micular.com/images/4.jpgTeapot1 wrote:Staining usually occurs when the pH gets to 8.1 and above
My pH has never reached 8. The highest was maybe 7.6.
Also before I shock the pool, I lower the pH to 6.8 and then shock. My theory is from this table, the lower the pH the more active the chlorine (and faster used as well but I can add it again after raising the pH)
% Active CI pH
97 % 6.0
91 % 6.5
76 % 7.0
66 % 7.2
50 % 7.5
33 % 7.8
24 % 8.0
9 % 8.5
.
Good to know. I will buy more liquid chlorine today and shock it in the evening again. I'll also buy the phosphate test set today if it's available. But what will I do if there is too much phosphate in the pool? What chemicals lower phosphates? Because I can't get the ready-made products here...Your chlorine chart is for water without CYA stabilser, in the presence of CYA the levels of active hyperchlorous acid are very similar at all relevant pH's in pools.
Would it be an idea to use poly aluminium chloride from time to time to filter it out?Even if you kill algae and bacteria you cant filter them out because the bags are not fine enough so the dead stuff goes back into the water to become food for the living stuff, especially algae with contains a lot of phosphate which goes back into the water.
Does it make any sense or is it wrong according to you? And how about sodium hypochlorite in combination with copper sulfate?Chlorine powder and and chlorine shock is calcium hypochloride Calcium hypochloride produces instantly chlorine gas when it gets into contact with an acid. When dissolved in almost neutral water then it will slowly release chlorine gas into the water.
Chlorine tablets (pucks) are Trichloroisocyanuric acid (known as Trichlor Isocyanuric chloride or Trichloro-S-Triazinetrione, some pucks contain Dichloroisocyanuric). Try to avoid them. Here is why: They produce atomic chlorine and cyanuric acid when dissolved in water. The cyanuric acid is a stabilizer and it stays forever in the water. It can form with copper a dark blue, almost purple powder called copper cyanurate. Copper cyanurate does not dissolve in water and stains your pool. Those pucks take the copper out of the water and stain your pool.
Always use calcium hypochloride powder in combination with copper sulfate algaecide.
Thought you were Aussie, I am truly sorry to be rude.However after reading what the Australian government said about their slow kill rates
That's a marvelous idea for my son's science project. He loves explosions.Incidentally NEVER mix Calhypo with Sodium hypo, that can explode.
Makes sense.otherwise the copper flecks wouldn't dissolve and would be left behind.
Okoth wrote:Denniswiseman wrote:Chem Geek is a really knowledgable chap and I wouldn't disagree with him at all as he has helped me in the past
I hadn't looked at the origonal and only the standard chart for a slam at 40 CYA
I agree that for mustard algae you need about 24
But guessing and being able to maintain the correct level is difficult without a FAS/DPD test kit as different CYA levels will require different FC levels and most tests don't do high levels of FCDenniswiseman wrote:This is why it's better to use liquid chlorine and not Trichlor / Dichlor which adds CYA constantly
Yes, I fully agree Dennis. The thing is, I can't buy a testing set over here and I can't import it because of restrictions. It sucks but that's how it is. So I can only measure the pH and CL with the simple tablets system and look at the color.
I replaced the pool water on 10/10/2021 and counted the trichlor I used and concluded that the CYA must be around 40 ppm. I decided to use sodium hypochlorite from then on. Since I still cannot measure the CYA and we are approaching the rain season it's going to hard to know how much CYA there will be in the pool after some months because we are going to get a lot of rain and water will be drained. I'm planning to start using trichlor again after I see that the chlorine level is gone fast after adding it. Not much more I can do. Great huh?
I hope I can go abroad soon a buy a proper testing set. That will be the best day of my life! It will get rid of lots of stress and gives me my free time back.
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